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Exhaust leak?

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Old 05-24-2022 | 05:11 AM
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Default Exhaust leak?

This is my first post here. So my ‘89 Dakota is running fine. No engine light. Only problem is that there is a strong exhaust smell when I am not moving. I noticed a silver hose going from the air intake to the right exhaust manifold. Then I noticed the piece the hose connects to is almost rusted all the way through and one of the bolts is broken off. What should I do? It’s just flapping around and the part is not available anywhere. Dorman makes an aftermarket right exhaust manifold but I do not believe it includes this part. I also do not think I can get the rusty bolts off without breaking the studs. I am wondering what this part even does and if the exhaust leak could be coming from there.

I also noticed a belt missing that goes from the air pump to the fan. Went to turn the air pump by hand and the bearing felt shot. The air pump is discontinued by Mopar and it seems no aftermarket ones exist either. Could the lack of an operating air pump be exacerbating the issue? Can I take it apart and just replace the bearing? I don’t want to be breathing in weird chemicals on my way to work.

 
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Old 05-24-2022 | 10:04 AM
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The silver tube is just a heat riser, that draws air across the exhaust manifold to warm it. Your exhaust leak isn't coming from there. (at least, it *shouldn't* be.....)

Check the lines for the air injection system. There are check valves in there, that prevent exhaust from back-flowing, and those will fail over time. Especially if the pump isn't working. If you live in an area that doesn't do emissions testing/inspection, just remove the AIR stuff, and plug the holes in the manifolds. You can get plugs the correct size from any hardware store.

Welcome to DF!
 
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Old 05-24-2022 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
The silver tube is just a heat riser, that draws air across the exhaust manifold to warm it. Your exhaust leak isn't coming from there. (at least, it *shouldn't* be.....)

Check the lines for the air injection system. There are check valves in there, that prevent exhaust from back-flowing, and those will fail over time. Especially if the pump isn't working. If you live in an area that doesn't do emissions testing/inspection, just remove the AIR stuff, and plug the holes in the manifolds. You can get plugs the correct size from any hardware store.

Welcome to DF!
Check valves, eh? I noticed 2 missing bolts that hold up the metal tube going from the non-functional air pump. I also noticed the **** looking thing on the left exhaust manifold is squeaky to turn and the metal stick looking thing is rusted to heck. Like I’m pretty sure it’s all rust. And it looks like it’s been ground down and replaced before. Could I get someone to weld a new little stick on there and lube up that uhh… valve? It seems like a valve.


 
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Old 05-25-2022 | 10:14 AM
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Yeah, that's a valve alright. There is the weight at the outermost, then a spring. The idea is, it closes a valve in the exhaust manifold, to force the exhaust thru the crossover in the intake manifold, to heat it up in winter. The spring, theoretically, is temp sensitive, and will allow the valve to open once it gets hot enough. Does it still actually work that way? Probably not.

If you are talking about the pin that the spring is against on the exhaust manifold there, that's just a roll pin, I think. Should be able to drill it out, and replace it, but, gotta pull the manifold to do it. If I were going to go to all that trouble, I would just replace the manifold. (maybe a good time for some headers?? )
 
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Old 05-31-2022 | 04:19 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Yeah, that's a valve alright. There is the weight at the outermost, then a spring. The idea is, it closes a valve in the exhaust manifold, to force the exhaust thru the crossover in the intake manifold, to heat it up in winter. The spring, theoretically, is temp sensitive, and will allow the valve to open once it gets hot enough. Does it still actually work that way? Probably not.

If you are talking about the pin that the spring is against on the exhaust manifold there, that's just a roll pin, I think. Should be able to drill it out, and replace it, but, gotta pull the manifold to do it. If I were going to go to all that trouble, I would just replace the manifold. (maybe a good time for some headers?? )
Would it adversely affect the vehicle if I just, ya know, permanently rig the valve open? I do not have a welder or a fancy drill bit to save me in the case of a broken bolt if I try to remove the manifold. Dorman makes a left exhaust manifold for 140 dollars give or take but the bolts holding it on are rusted to heck and, in my mind, guaranteed to break. So theoretically, if I hit every bolt with a penetrant every day for two weeks, maybe there’s a possibility I won’t get rekt trying to remove it.

Headers seem fun but I’d have to check out the prices. If they’re cheaper then I’ll go for it! Especially if they don’t have valves to mess with. If I go with those is there any additional tuning involved? I don’t fully understand headers tbh
 
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Old 05-31-2022 | 09:05 AM
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For the most part, you could rig it open, call it a day, and not notice any difference. If you live in a severely cold climate though.... you might.

Whereabouts in Ohio?
 
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Old 06-08-2022 | 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
For the most part, you could rig it open, call it a day, and not notice any difference. If you live in a severely cold climate though.... you might.

Whereabouts in Ohio?
Dayton area
 
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Old 06-08-2022 | 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Princess_Kota
Dayton area
Probably don't really need it then.
 



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