Exhaust leak?
#1
Exhaust leak?
This is my first post here. So my ‘89 Dakota is running fine. No engine light. Only problem is that there is a strong exhaust smell when I am not moving. I noticed a silver hose going from the air intake to the right exhaust manifold. Then I noticed the piece the hose connects to is almost rusted all the way through and one of the bolts is broken off. What should I do? It’s just flapping around and the part is not available anywhere. Dorman makes an aftermarket right exhaust manifold but I do not believe it includes this part. I also do not think I can get the rusty bolts off without breaking the studs. I am wondering what this part even does and if the exhaust leak could be coming from there.
I also noticed a belt missing that goes from the air pump to the fan. Went to turn the air pump by hand and the bearing felt shot. The air pump is discontinued by Mopar and it seems no aftermarket ones exist either. Could the lack of an operating air pump be exacerbating the issue? Can I take it apart and just replace the bearing? I don’t want to be breathing in weird chemicals on my way to work.
I also noticed a belt missing that goes from the air pump to the fan. Went to turn the air pump by hand and the bearing felt shot. The air pump is discontinued by Mopar and it seems no aftermarket ones exist either. Could the lack of an operating air pump be exacerbating the issue? Can I take it apart and just replace the bearing? I don’t want to be breathing in weird chemicals on my way to work.
#2
The silver tube is just a heat riser, that draws air across the exhaust manifold to warm it. Your exhaust leak isn't coming from there. (at least, it *shouldn't* be.....)
Check the lines for the air injection system. There are check valves in there, that prevent exhaust from back-flowing, and those will fail over time. Especially if the pump isn't working. If you live in an area that doesn't do emissions testing/inspection, just remove the AIR stuff, and plug the holes in the manifolds. You can get plugs the correct size from any hardware store.
Welcome to DF!
Check the lines for the air injection system. There are check valves in there, that prevent exhaust from back-flowing, and those will fail over time. Especially if the pump isn't working. If you live in an area that doesn't do emissions testing/inspection, just remove the AIR stuff, and plug the holes in the manifolds. You can get plugs the correct size from any hardware store.
Welcome to DF!
The following users liked this post:
Princess_Kota (05-24-2022)
#3
The silver tube is just a heat riser, that draws air across the exhaust manifold to warm it. Your exhaust leak isn't coming from there. (at least, it *shouldn't* be.....)
Check the lines for the air injection system. There are check valves in there, that prevent exhaust from back-flowing, and those will fail over time. Especially if the pump isn't working. If you live in an area that doesn't do emissions testing/inspection, just remove the AIR stuff, and plug the holes in the manifolds. You can get plugs the correct size from any hardware store.
Welcome to DF!
Check the lines for the air injection system. There are check valves in there, that prevent exhaust from back-flowing, and those will fail over time. Especially if the pump isn't working. If you live in an area that doesn't do emissions testing/inspection, just remove the AIR stuff, and plug the holes in the manifolds. You can get plugs the correct size from any hardware store.
Welcome to DF!
#4
Yeah, that's a valve alright. There is the weight at the outermost, then a spring. The idea is, it closes a valve in the exhaust manifold, to force the exhaust thru the crossover in the intake manifold, to heat it up in winter. The spring, theoretically, is temp sensitive, and will allow the valve to open once it gets hot enough. Does it still actually work that way? Probably not.
If you are talking about the pin that the spring is against on the exhaust manifold there, that's just a roll pin, I think. Should be able to drill it out, and replace it, but, gotta pull the manifold to do it. If I were going to go to all that trouble, I would just replace the manifold. (maybe a good time for some headers?? )
If you are talking about the pin that the spring is against on the exhaust manifold there, that's just a roll pin, I think. Should be able to drill it out, and replace it, but, gotta pull the manifold to do it. If I were going to go to all that trouble, I would just replace the manifold. (maybe a good time for some headers?? )
The following users liked this post:
tndakman (05-25-2022)
#5
Yeah, that's a valve alright. There is the weight at the outermost, then a spring. The idea is, it closes a valve in the exhaust manifold, to force the exhaust thru the crossover in the intake manifold, to heat it up in winter. The spring, theoretically, is temp sensitive, and will allow the valve to open once it gets hot enough. Does it still actually work that way? Probably not.
If you are talking about the pin that the spring is against on the exhaust manifold there, that's just a roll pin, I think. Should be able to drill it out, and replace it, but, gotta pull the manifold to do it. If I were going to go to all that trouble, I would just replace the manifold. (maybe a good time for some headers?? )
If you are talking about the pin that the spring is against on the exhaust manifold there, that's just a roll pin, I think. Should be able to drill it out, and replace it, but, gotta pull the manifold to do it. If I were going to go to all that trouble, I would just replace the manifold. (maybe a good time for some headers?? )
Headers seem fun but I’d have to check out the prices. If they’re cheaper then I’ll go for it! Especially if they don’t have valves to mess with. If I go with those is there any additional tuning involved? I don’t fully understand headers tbh
#7