I have taken down all of the measurements I need to get the rear end back in alignment when the four link goes in. Yes, I measured multiple times per axis just to make sure I was recording the right numbers. The stock pinion angle seems excessive to me, from what I have researched. Measuring off the diff cover mounting surface, it reads 5.6 degrees. I have read it should be between 1 and 3 degrees at each end (opposite each other), and preferably the same at each end. Now for all the grinding and cutting! I have the template ready to cut the parts to box in the frame in the area the suspension mounts will attach - about 2' in length. I mentioned going this route would be safer... I was using 2" wide car ratchet straps, one on each side, rated at 3300 lbs. After leaving the leaf springs compressed overnight one of the straps started to fray at one end. I was a bit surprised by that. I could not get it to the 6.25" ride height that "bronze" had measured. All I could achieve was 7". It would be interesting to know how much pressure the leaf springs were applying to those straps. When I released each side, the entire frame jumped about an inch off the jack stands. Yeah, some serious force was being released with a loud bang! Ruining one of my car tie downs was the straw that made me reconsider using the leaf spring mounts as a fixture to hold the rear end in position. I am pulling the axles and brakes before I take the rear end out. I am putting in a locker, and 5 lug axles with disk brakes, so the leaf springs can hold the rear end while swapping stuff out.

 

Since you don't have the box on there, you could just leave the back end of the spring loose, and use some blocks between frame and axle to the right distance there......

I think the spring are rated at something like 1600 pounds per inch. So, 1600 to compress 'em one inch, 3200 to compress them 2, 4800 lbs to compress 'em 3, etc.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheSneeze

I have come to the conclusion that to install the four link kit properly I will need to remove the leaf springs after all. It means more labor, measuring, aligning, etc., but it will be safer. I also want to have the lower brackets outside the frame rails, and the leaf springs and their brackets are in the way. I was going to try and mount the lower bars/brackets to the inside of the frame rails, but that raises some unforeseen issues as well. Oh well.

Just a suggestion, and I have never tried this, but I wonder if you could heat the leaf spring and get it to drop? I have seen guys do this with coil springs. They take a torch and heat it to get it to lower. Very getto, but you are scraping the leafs anyway, May be worth a try.

 

So the rear end is now sitting on jack stands, and the leaf springs and shocks are removed. The hoist is helping drain the oil from the diff. Once I remove all the drum brake parts, I will pull the rear end out of there and get it on my weld table. Remove the leaf spring perches and shock mounts, and prep it for welding the new mounts on. All of the leaf spring mounts on the frame will get the rivets cut off, and brackets removed.

 

Is that primer? Or bare metal I am seein' there?

 

That is raw, sand blasted metal.

 

If you have a moist environment, should get some covering on that, maybe some sealing primer? Or similar? Here in michigan, that would change color in the course of a couple days.

 

Since I am in northern Nevada, our average humidity is around 20%. I have seen it dip to single digits, but not too often. I do not have a rust problem up here! I bought some Chassis Saver paint, but until last week the temps have not been warm enough to use it. Also, I figured I would try to get some of the welding done to it before I paint it. If any rust starts to show up it will be real easy to wire wheel off before painting as well. You can see areas of rust where brackets or cross members have been removed. Those will get wire wheeled as well. I am itching to get my drivetrain components, but I have to sell a motorcycle project I am finishing up first. One project funds the next. I am currently 100 miles into a 500 mile break in period before I can list it up. This bike sat outside in So Cal for 28 years when I picked it up. Turned out pretty good!!

 

Keep yer Eye out for a 1983 Honda CB1000C. I'd be interested.

 

Boy, the months seem to just roll on by.... I finally listed the motorcycle for sale. We will see how long it takes to sell. This bike will fund my drivetrain. Until then, it sits. Seems like every project is all about the money. Not much gets done without it!