Sounds good, a lot of good info there. They don’t make a dipstick/tube for the Dakotas at least on RockAuto so I’ll have to see if the one for the full size works. I do also plan on seeing if I can run an electric fan bc I’d rather have that over the clutch fan personally.

 

Alright gents, finals are over and I’m back home for the summer and got to look at some parts that have trickled in, mainly looking at the ECM and harness I bought. I bought a 96 ECM, and a 97 harness, both from a full size AT. The harness has some connectors missing, which was noted on the listing but no idea what these connectors were. Hoping some pictures would help someone with more knowledge of these harnesses help me figure it out. I’m colorblind, so using a diagram plus having faded wires would be my last option lol.


Here’s a Birds Eye of two connectors that are missing. The one off to the right and there’s one with 4 wires to the left. Closer picture of those cut wires below.

4 wire connector here

This is right next to the PCM, not sure what this would go to.

There is also a cluster of big connectors, I’m assuming those go to the trans? There are 3, square, rather large. I neglected to take pictures but the trans is my best guess. Given I’m keeping the 5 speed, is there any pins I can jump to keep the CEL off for the trans?

 

Oh, that's gonna be fun....... You may end up having to actually install the harness, see the missing connectors are close to, that doesn't have it's electrical connection.... There are diagrams in the service manual that show connector locations. Might be able to figure it out just by proximity to other connectors. It *look* like they are all the same branch of the harness as the O2 sensors? Maybe??

The large square connectors are bulkhead connectors, for the stuff in the cab.

You will have to have the PCM re-flashed with a manual trans tune to keep the CEL off. Can't fade what some of the sensors would be doing.

 

That actually would explain the one connector with heat shielding around it.

Would that technically mean I need a dash harness to get the OBD2 working then?

What about getting it started for the time being with a neutral safety switch? My trucks current one on the manual doesn’t work, along with the clutch switch

 

Gonna need to look at pinouts for both sides of the bulkhead connector, and see what goes where, and make sure they match. For the diagnostic connector, probably need to grab that section of the harness from a donor.

 

I may have asked this already but I'm not 100% sure and I couldn't find it on my thread here. When I'm on the site for Novac's AX15, I see I can buy a throwout bearing retainer that allows a conversion to an external slave cylinder, would that be ideal for my setup and would I have to change anything? I can't remember if the 92 AX-15s are internally slaved or not.

 

Well just over $900 buckaroos later I have gotten the engine back from the machine shop. Ended up boring .020 over, and got the block cleaned and decked. I'm currently assembling a box monster of engine parts in the garage and will hopefully be beginning the build in 2-3 weeks. Already have my new heads. cam, and pistons in the garage, just ordered my cart from Summit which has random bits and bobs, rollers, oil filter relocation, its primarily tools like a pump primer, etc. Really all I have left is a big order from RockAuto and some engine paint. Going to go with Mopar Small Block Blue, not sure what the actual technical name is of the paint, but I'm going with the paint linked below. Just had some more random questions that popped into my head.

Here is the link to the paint, there's no image of color but there is a code: https://www.classicindustries.com/product/*k89176.html

What should and should not be lubed prior to engine assembly? I know people have differing opinions but wanted to get some input. I've heard that Harland wants you to soak the rockers in oil for awhile before installing them, but I've heard it both ways for the lifters, some people say don't soak them, some people say do. I guess it doesn't really matter anyway because I'll be priming the engine before it goes into the truck anyway.

Another controversial topic I want some input into, core plugs... dry? RTV? Loctite? I have brass plugs, one of the videos I watched of a build on a 350 chevy, he puts them in dry and said the brass plugs sometimes weep when coolant is added, but when the block gets up to temp for the first time and all the metal expands, they truly seal and won't leak anymore.

 

Basically, if it moves, it should be lubed. If it doesn't.... well, then it doesn't really need it. For the rockers, I would follow the manufacturers directions, for the lifters, consult the service manual. I really don't think it will hurt to soak them..... Freeze plugs? If I remember right, I installed them dry... but, that has been a while ago.

 

If you feel like you need something slippery that doesn't affect the end product petroleum jelly, the good stuff not the knock of garbage the generics have become, in a thin coat not in gobs will help anything, especially hoses, slip over each other w/o leaving residue behind after the motor heats up.

 

Sounds good, just didn't know what people preferred in terms of the plugs. The pre lubing I figured was common sense though I do plan to prime the engine before install and pull the spark and fuel and let it turn over a bit before first start anyway. Had another random thing pop into my head as I start to get this thing assembled, from what I googled, all of the head bolts are blind correct? I know there are some timing cover bolts that are into the jackets, and I think some on the water pump itself, but the head bolts are blind?