'92 Dakota 360 Swap
I've been looking at fuel pressure regulators and haven't really found one that can turn down the EFI pressure down to 6-8psi which is what the carb will want, other than some that are over $200. I know I need a return style regulator, luckily the 92 pump was a return style and I still have it handy so I can throw that back in, but just wanted to know if anyone here has any experience with turning down the pressure with a not $200 regulator. Obviously the regulator is still cheaper than getting a LA style cam, timing cover, mechanical pump, etc, but I wanted to know if I had a third option.
If the truck was originally throttle body injection, those operate around 15 PSI or so, so, your average everyday holley pressure regulator will do the job. (with a return line) If it was a port fuel injected engine, there won't be a return line....
So it's a weird one because I read about that, I'm not sure if the TBI was used on the 92, but it was port injected with a vacuum regulator with a return line. The 99 engine obviously has no regulator and no return so I bought a pump for a 94 dakota with no return, but I still have the original pump handy with a return.
So it's a weird one because I read about that, I'm not sure if the TBI was used on the 92, but it was port injected with a vacuum regulator with a return line. The 99 engine obviously has no regulator and no return so I bought a pump for a 94 dakota with no return, but I still have the original pump handy with a return.
Still and all, you have 96-97 electronics to run it, right???
92 was the first year for the 'magnum' series engines, with MPFI. But, that was just the 3.9, and 5.2. 5.9 didn't get MPFI until 93. I wasn't aware that ANY of them had a return-style fuel system...... I have never seen one on a magnum motor.
Still and all, you have 96-97 electronics to run it, right???
Still and all, you have 96-97 electronics to run it, right???
Easier starts, better fuel mileage, not fussy about outside temp, etc..... Not to mention, if you have an automatic trans??? Gonna have to either replace it, or spend big money on a controller for it.
I know carbs are more picky and they’re not self tuning, but there was never a time where I wasn’t messing with something on that truck with the v6 so I’m honestly not afraid to do the same with the v8. The one I’m getting has an electric choke, and the distributor has both mechanical and vacuum advance, so I think I’ll easily be able to get it dialed in for the cold and it won’t be very picky warming up.
It’s a manual, AX-15. I started looking at all the tuning stuff I would need through FRP, and it would be almost $1000 just to get it tuned but I can’t tune it because I can’t get the obd2 port to work. Holley snipers are almost $3000 all in, but I can get a carb, an intake, and distributor for $1200…
I know carbs are more picky and they’re not self tuning, but there was never a time where I wasn’t messing with something on that truck with the v6 so I’m honestly not afraid to do the same with the v8. The one I’m getting has an electric choke, and the distributor has both mechanical and vacuum advance, so I think I’ll easily be able to get it dialed in for the cold and it won’t be very picky warming up.
I know carbs are more picky and they’re not self tuning, but there was never a time where I wasn’t messing with something on that truck with the v6 so I’m honestly not afraid to do the same with the v8. The one I’m getting has an electric choke, and the distributor has both mechanical and vacuum advance, so I think I’ll easily be able to get it dialed in for the cold and it won’t be very picky warming up.
My dad grew up with carb engines, specifically mopars actually though not really that it matters, an engine is an engine lol, so he I’m sure has every possible issue with a carbed engine in his mind already. I think it also helps that if you pull all of the electronics out of it, a 360 magnum is literally just a small block and can be treated just like any other engine.







