When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Summit Racing has a selection of 'em, but, they are pretty proud of those..... If the existing shaft is in good shape, not twisted, no excess wear on the gear, re-use it.
Turns out I can’t reuse my current crank. Am currently polishing the journals with the good old shoelace and some sandpaper rolls and after 400, 600, 800, then 1000 grit I still have scoring that catches the nail. I’m not sure how I didn’t notice this but on the rear 2 rod journals the scoring is so bad I can actually feel it with my finger tip (not nail).
It will have to be replaced, or turned undersized, with the appropriate bearings.
With how expensive labor is now it’s probably cheaper to buy a new crank anyway. The beginning of my parts issues also begins… ordered a set of core/oil plugs from summit, I’m missing half of the oil plugs.
I purchased a rebuilt crank for mine through advance auto. You can get a 15-20 percent discount online...... Before covid, I paid $155.00 exchange. This included the rod and main bearings.
I purchased a rebuilt crank for mine through advance auto. You can get a 15-20 percent discount online...... Before covid, I paid $155.00 exchange. This included the rod and main bearings.
I've looked at Advance, their prices are a lot cheaper but their supplier is currently out of stock which sucks. I did find a place that sells one for $350 though.
I just started reading this thread sorry I'm just now chiming in . First I am fully educated on 1gen v8 swaps and let me se iff i can save you some mon and time . As far as the advice you have so far stick with wat there givin hey you and ragtop are straight up and haven't seen them steer anyone wrong. Ok enough brown nosing lol. FIRST THING throw that damn fuel inj in the garbage they have aluminum int for carb 150 I'll sell you a used carb for 75 and I'll send you a vid of these same carbs running my 440 my360 and my 5.2 and no choke cold in texas will start up snd drive away cold but the difference is POWER those fi set ups do not give you anywhere near the guts that a good 4barrel will!! Got 3 dakota's and d250 2 rv vans all v8 mopar all same carb except d250 and i'll give you a dist fron the 80's and you put a gm modul with it and i promise you can't get your fingers off the key fast enough when you start it
I just started reading this thread sorry I'm just now chiming in . First I am fully educated on 1gen v8 swaps and let me se iff i can save you some mon and time . As far as the advice you have so far stick with wat there givin hey you and ragtop are straight up and haven't seen them steer anyone wrong. Ok enough brown nosing lol. FIRST THING throw that damn fuel inj in the garbage they have aluminum int for carb 150 I'll sell you a used carb for 75 and I'll send you a vid of these same carbs running my 440 my360 and my 5.2 and no choke cold in texas will start up snd drive away cold but the difference is POWER those fi set ups do not give you anywhere near the guts that a good 4barrel will!! Got 3 dakota's and d250 2 rv vans all v8 mopar all same carb except d250 and i'll give you a dist fron the 80's and you put a gm modul with it and i promise you can't get your fingers off the key fast enough when you start it
forgot to mention all are manual trans so all of the automatic guys you will need to modify your trans to shift.
