2003 Transmission
#1
05-10-2009, 03:25 PM
Join Date: Aug 2007
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2003 Transmission
2003 Durango, 5.9L, 2wd Auto, 118K miles
The transmission has never been serviced.
Today is the first time I've ever had any serious issues with the truck.
Started up fine, shifted into drive normally, I noticed a slip on the 1-2 shift (first time ever).
At the next stop sign, the motor rev'd to 3K and shifted, but it skipped 2 and went straight to 3. Immediately turned around and took it back home, experiencing same issues all the way back.
Once i got it home I could NOT shift into P or R. It would shift between N, D, 2 and 1 but that's it. It will Not go into P or R.
I checked the fluid couple weeks ago, and it was red with no smells. I checked it again today and its NOT red but doesn't have any definitive smells.
It's a daily driver so a decision will need to be made asap.
I seem to remember the 'fastman' transmission to be pretty popular on here, but it has been some time ago.
Thoughts/Options?
The transmission has never been serviced.
Today is the first time I've ever had any serious issues with the truck.
Started up fine, shifted into drive normally, I noticed a slip on the 1-2 shift (first time ever).
At the next stop sign, the motor rev'd to 3K and shifted, but it skipped 2 and went straight to 3. Immediately turned around and took it back home, experiencing same issues all the way back.
Once i got it home I could NOT shift into P or R. It would shift between N, D, 2 and 1 but that's it. It will Not go into P or R.
I checked the fluid couple weeks ago, and it was red with no smells. I checked it again today and its NOT red but doesn't have any definitive smells.
It's a daily driver so a decision will need to be made asap.
I seem to remember the 'fastman' transmission to be pretty popular on here, but it has been some time ago.
Thoughts/Options?
#2
05-10-2009, 07:38 PM
Champion
#3
05-10-2009, 11:23 PM
Hall Of Fame
I aggree Indy. Get it serviced. Fluid, filter, and adjustment. The only other thing I can say is maybe a Governor Solenoid but with the fact of bad fluid all of a sudden could be something else. If you do replace the trany then Dans associate at www.thefastman.com makes a great one.
Now I have to ask....... How do you check the transmission fluid?
²
Now I have to ask....... How do you check the transmission fluid?
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - EFFECTS OF
INCORRECT FLUID LEVEL
A low fluid level allows the pump to take in air
along with the fluid. Air in the fluid will cause fluid
pressures to be low and develop slower than normal.
If the transmission is overfilled, the gears churn the
fluid into foam. This aerates the fluid and causing
the same conditions occurring with a low level. In
either case, air bubbles cause fluid overheating, oxidation
and varnish buildup which interferes with
valve and clutch operation. Foaming also causes fluid
expansion which can result in fluid overflow from the
transmission vent or fill tube. Fluid overflow can easily
be mistaken for a leak if inspection is not careful.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CAUSES OF
BURNT FLUID
Burnt, discolored fluid is a result of overheating
which has two primary causes.
(1) A result of restricted fluid flow through the
main and/or auxiliary cooler. This condition is usually
the result of a faulty or improperly installed
drainback valve, a damaged main cooler, or severe
restrictions in the coolers and lines caused by debris
or kinked lines.
(2) Heavy duty operation with a vehicle not properly
equipped for this type of operation. Trailer towing
or similar high load operation will overheat the
transmission fluid if the vehicle is improperly
equipped. Such vehicles should have an auxiliary
transmission fluid cooler, a heavy duty cooling system,
and the engine/axle ratio combination needed to
handle heavy loads.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FLUID
CONTAMINATION
Transmission fluid contamination is generally a
result of:
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - EFFECTS OF
INCORRECT FLUID LEVEL
A low fluid level allows the pump to take in air
along with the fluid. Air in the fluid will cause fluid
pressures to be low and develop slower than normal.
If the transmission is overfilled, the gears churn the
fluid into foam. This aerates the fluid and causing
the same conditions occurring with a low level. In
either case, air bubbles cause fluid overheating, oxidation
and varnish buildup which interferes with
valve and clutch operation. Foaming also causes fluid
expansion which can result in fluid overflow from the
transmission vent or fill tube. Fluid overflow can easily
be mistaken for a leak if inspection is not careful.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CAUSES OF
BURNT FLUID
Burnt, discolored fluid is a result of overheating
which has two primary causes.
(1) A result of restricted fluid flow through the
main and/or auxiliary cooler. This condition is usually
the result of a faulty or improperly installed
drainback valve, a damaged main cooler, or severe
restrictions in the coolers and lines caused by debris
or kinked lines.
(2) Heavy duty operation with a vehicle not properly
equipped for this type of operation. Trailer towing
or similar high load operation will overheat the
transmission fluid if the vehicle is improperly
equipped. Such vehicles should have an auxiliary
transmission fluid cooler, a heavy duty cooling system,
and the engine/axle ratio combination needed to
handle heavy loads.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FLUID
CONTAMINATION
Transmission fluid contamination is generally a
result of:
²
adding incorrect fluid
²
failure to clean dipstick and fill tube when
checking level
²
engine coolant entering the fluid
²
internal failure that generates debris
²
overheat that generates sludge (fluid breakdown)
²
failure to reverse flush cooler and lines after
repair
²
failure to replace contaminated converter after
repair
The use of non-recommended fluids can result in
transmission failure. The usual results are erratic
shifts, slippage, abnormal wear and eventual failure
due to fluid breakdown and sludge formation. Avoid
this condition by using recommended fluids only.
The dipstick cap and fill tube should be wiped
clean before checking fluid level. Dirt, grease and
other foreign material on the cap and tube could fall
into the tube if not removed beforehand. Take the
time to wipe the cap and tube clean before withdrawing
the dipstick.
Engine coolant in the transmission fluid is generally
caused by a cooler malfunction. The only remedy
is to replace the radiator as the cooler in the radiator
is not a serviceable part. If coolant has circulated
through the transmission, an overhaul is necessary.
The transmission cooler and lines should be
reverse flushed whenever a malfunction generates
sludge and/or debris. The torque converter should
also be replaced at the same time.
Failure to flush the cooler and lines will result in
recontamination. Flushing applies to auxiliary coolers
as well. The torque converter should also be
replaced whenever a failure generates sludge and
debris. This is necessary because normal converter
flushing procedures will not remove all contaminants.
The use of non-recommended fluids can result in
transmission failure. The usual results are erratic
shifts, slippage, abnormal wear and eventual failure
due to fluid breakdown and sludge formation. Avoid
this condition by using recommended fluids only.
The dipstick cap and fill tube should be wiped
clean before checking fluid level. Dirt, grease and
other foreign material on the cap and tube could fall
into the tube if not removed beforehand. Take the
time to wipe the cap and tube clean before withdrawing
the dipstick.
Engine coolant in the transmission fluid is generally
caused by a cooler malfunction. The only remedy
is to replace the radiator as the cooler in the radiator
is not a serviceable part. If coolant has circulated
through the transmission, an overhaul is necessary.
The transmission cooler and lines should be
reverse flushed whenever a malfunction generates
sludge and/or debris. The torque converter should
also be replaced at the same time.
Failure to flush the cooler and lines will result in
recontamination. Flushing applies to auxiliary coolers
as well. The torque converter should also be
replaced whenever a failure generates sludge and
debris. This is necessary because normal converter
flushing procedures will not remove all contaminants.
Fig. 89 Installing Overdrive Housing Seal
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3995-A OR C-3972-A
2 - SPECIAL TOOL C-4471
21 - 252 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 46RE
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3995-A OR C-3972-A
2 - SPECIAL TOOL C-4471
21 - 252 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 46RE
DN
EXTENSION HOUSING SEAL (Continued)
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUID LEVEL
CHECK
Low fluid level can cause a variety of conditions
because it allows the pump to take in air along with
the fluid. As in any hydraulic system, air bubbles
make the fluid spongy, therefore, pressures will be
low and build up slowly.
Improper filling can also raise the fluid level too
high. When the transmssion has too much fluid, the
geartrain churns up foam and cause the same conditions
which occur with a low fluid level.
In either case, air bubbles can cause overheating
and/or fluid oxidation, and varnishing. This can
interfere with normal valve, clutch, and accumulator
operation. Foaming can also result in fluid escaping
from the transmission vent where it may be mistaken
for a leak.
After the fluid has been checked, seat the dipstick
fully to seal out water and dirt.
The transmission has a dipstick to check oil level.
It is located on the right side of the engine. Be sure
to wipe all dirt from dipstick handle before removing.
Fluid level is checked with the engine running at
curb idle speed, the transmission in NEUTRAL and
the transmission fluid at normal operating temperature.
The engine should be running at idle
speed for at least one minute, with the vehicle
on level ground.
The transmission fluid level can be checked two
ways.
PROCEDURE ONE
(1) Transmission fluid must be at normal operating
temperature for accurate fluid level check. Drive
vehicle if necessary to bring fluid temperature up to
normal hot operating temperature of 82°C (180°F).
(2) Position vehicle on level surface.
(3) Start and run engine at curb idle speed.
(4) Apply parking brakes.
(5) Shift transmission momentarily into all gear
ranges. Then shift transmission back to NEUTRAL.
(6) Clean top of filler tube and dipstick to keep
dirt from entering tube.
(7) Remove dipstick (Fig. 90) and check fluid level
as follows:
(a) Correct acceptable level is in crosshatch area.
(b) Correct maximum level is to MAX arrow
mark.
(c) Incorrect level is at or below MIN line.
(d) If fluid is low, add only enough Mopar
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FLUID LEVEL
CHECK
Low fluid level can cause a variety of conditions
because it allows the pump to take in air along with
the fluid. As in any hydraulic system, air bubbles
make the fluid spongy, therefore, pressures will be
low and build up slowly.
Improper filling can also raise the fluid level too
high. When the transmssion has too much fluid, the
geartrain churns up foam and cause the same conditions
which occur with a low fluid level.
In either case, air bubbles can cause overheating
and/or fluid oxidation, and varnishing. This can
interfere with normal valve, clutch, and accumulator
operation. Foaming can also result in fluid escaping
from the transmission vent where it may be mistaken
for a leak.
After the fluid has been checked, seat the dipstick
fully to seal out water and dirt.
The transmission has a dipstick to check oil level.
It is located on the right side of the engine. Be sure
to wipe all dirt from dipstick handle before removing.
Fluid level is checked with the engine running at
curb idle speed, the transmission in NEUTRAL and
the transmission fluid at normal operating temperature.
The engine should be running at idle
speed for at least one minute, with the vehicle
on level ground.
The transmission fluid level can be checked two
ways.
PROCEDURE ONE
(1) Transmission fluid must be at normal operating
temperature for accurate fluid level check. Drive
vehicle if necessary to bring fluid temperature up to
normal hot operating temperature of 82°C (180°F).
(2) Position vehicle on level surface.
(3) Start and run engine at curb idle speed.
(4) Apply parking brakes.
(5) Shift transmission momentarily into all gear
ranges. Then shift transmission back to NEUTRAL.
(6) Clean top of filler tube and dipstick to keep
dirt from entering tube.
(7) Remove dipstick (Fig. 90) and check fluid level
as follows:
(a) Correct acceptable level is in crosshatch area.
(b) Correct maximum level is to MAX arrow
mark.
(c) Incorrect level is at or below MIN line.
(d) If fluid is low, add only enough Mopar
t ATF
+4, type 9602, to restore correct level. Do not overfill.
+4, type 9602, to restore correct level. Do not overfill.
#4
05-11-2009, 08:40 AM
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3
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considering all options...
yes, the transmission will be serviced at the minimum. But I like to consider all my options. If the difference between a new transmission and a service is $2000, then yes, the choice is obvious. If the difference is significantly lower, then that's another question. I just like to be overly informed. Besides, now is a good of time as any to consider any performance upgrades.
I wasn't particularly concerned about fluid level. I was more concerned about fluid condition. Regardless of quality or quantity, it's broke. The pan is gonna be dropped and its going to have to be looked at now. In the past, I have used the proper procedures for checking fluid, Motor running/ transmission at operating temp/ placed in neutral, the results have never given me any cause for concern. Its always performed as expected.
If it wasn't a daily driver, and I had the space, time and tools. I would love nothing more than to take that thing out and tear it down and figure it out. But I don't, so that's where I'm at.
Considering 108K miles on a transmission that has a less than stellar performance record with little to no service? I'd say I got lucky.
Thoughts/comments?
Thanks for your time,
Mike
I wasn't particularly concerned about fluid level. I was more concerned about fluid condition. Regardless of quality or quantity, it's broke. The pan is gonna be dropped and its going to have to be looked at now. In the past, I have used the proper procedures for checking fluid, Motor running/ transmission at operating temp/ placed in neutral, the results have never given me any cause for concern. Its always performed as expected.
If it wasn't a daily driver, and I had the space, time and tools. I would love nothing more than to take that thing out and tear it down and figure it out. But I don't, so that's where I'm at.
Considering 108K miles on a transmission that has a less than stellar performance record with little to no service? I'd say I got lucky.
Thoughts/comments?
Thanks for your time,
Mike
#5
05-11-2009, 03:59 PM
Hall Of Fame
Total on a service is about $150 that includes the above listed detailes.
Build your back up and install a Transgo Shift Kit buy a GOOD shop or buy a Fastman. They make a builet proof one for about 3K. If you build yours might be able to do it cheaper. Make sure you realy flush the system REALLY GOOD forward and reverse. 1 metal fragment can screw it up.
I still think you should have it fully serviced for $150 first then go from there.
Build your back up and install a Transgo Shift Kit buy a GOOD shop or buy a Fastman. They make a builet proof one for about 3K. If you build yours might be able to do it cheaper. Make sure you realy flush the system REALLY GOOD forward and reverse. 1 metal fragment can screw it up.
I still think you should have it fully serviced for $150 first then go from there.
#6
05-11-2009, 06:50 PM
Champion
#7
05-11-2009, 07:16 PM
Hall Of Fame
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#8
05-11-2009, 08:03 PM
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