Heres the background info...1998 5.9L durango 4x4 auto

here are the problems...
after reading through the forum, i found i have a similar problem to many. the brake lights dont work on the rear when the pedal is pressed. the directionals work and so do the hazards and the parking lights. so if im not mistaken its the brake light switch located on the brake pedal?

second problem is there is a major leak in the rear line. to be more specific the leak is on top of the rear diff. if im not mistaken (correct me if im wrong) there's one line that comes from the front, it goes into a coupling or something that then sends the fluid to the rear drums. it seems like an easy fix...but is it???


and just a random question about brake fluid, does it ever go bad? cuz i have some stuff thats been sitting in an uninsulated garage for like 5 years...im afraid to use it cuz its been sitting so long.

thanks for reading my post
any help is greatly appreciated.

 

issue 1:

did you check the bulbs and fuses? if they check out then replace the brake light switch which is mounted above the brake pedal

issue 2:

i believe that should be a simple T fitting, which is simple to replace, if you can get to it, although it might be worth it for you to replace the hard lines to the rear just for peace of mind (you dont have to, but i probably would, especially considering that you might ruin the flats on the nuts holding the T-fitting in place)

and random answer: if the bottle of brake fluid is SEALED it is probably fine, if it has been open then i would chuck it in the trash and get a new one

your welcome for reading your post
and help has been supplied

 

I would just get a new bottle of DOT3.

 

Yes brake fluid can go bad, I initially didnt think so but I now have $857 reasons to say yes. Fluid can break down and fail at most inopportune times, (Like say riding along a busy interstate during rush hour and a caliper does not retract causing pad to drag on rotor and a minor brake fire. If in doubt chuck and start again. It may be fine, but do you really want to chance your family or major brake system failure over a $4.00 bottle of fluid? I also recommend brake system flushes about every year. It is good peace of mind to have new fluid flushed through the system.

Quick summary, coming home from MSP airport, caliper stuck applied brakes and fluid flowed to extend calipers and apply brake but line collapsed and did not suck back fluid. Fluid stuck caliper in locked position, but not enough to totally lock, more of a slow dragging of pad causing pad to drag on rotor and heat build up with hot brakes and minor fire. Total damage Entire passengers front brake assmebly including brake line, caliper, rotor, pads and associated hardware.. Firestone due to liability will only replace brakes in pairs hence the $857 so line, caliper, pads, rotors (X2) and back flush.

 

yeah sorry i forgot to mention the fact that i did check the bulbs and all the fuses. first thing i did was check the bulbs and all the fuses.

that should be common sense, but not everyone has common sense

 

Check your trailer hitch 7 way outlet. You can unplug it and see if you have power after showing a ground out.

 

I had the same no brake light problem, all lights except brakes and third light would come on fine. Followed the Haynes manual to change out switch above pedal after a trip to AZone ($15 bucks I think) and all is good!! I hope you're flexible, getting to the switch requires some contortionism! LOL

 

In Europe they change break fluid like we do transmission fluid. For some reason here in the USA that never caught on. YES brake fluid should be bled through the system until clear upon replacement.

Also, the rear hose it an easy on, easy off on the top of the diff. Does require bleeding after replacement.

IndyDurango

 

Brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it absorbs water. Even a opened bottle that is capped back off will do it.

Easy way to change brake fluid is to use a turkey baster to remove as much fluid as possible from the reservoir, fill with clean fluid, and then bleed the brakes until you see new fluid coming out. (and no bubbles coming out.)

 

+1 Scott. That is the best way to get the master cylinder emptied to a level that you can replace a majority of the fluid. However since fluid is not recirculating, that process does nothing for the old fluid in the brake lines. It is still recommended that a bleed occur. You will see with a clear new MC, the fluid in the lines is still dark and brown.

+1 again. Never used opened brake fluid from any 'closed' container. Brake fluid is like a super water sponge on a microscopic level.

IndyD