Major overhaul.
#11
Water gets in the oil from condensation every time you start a cold engine. Think of a cold block with hot combustion chambers... like cold water sitting in a glass. The water evaporates when your engine gets hot enough. This is why folks who mostly do quick trips, should change their oil on a shorter schedule. If you're constantly doing five minute trips around town, the water starts accumulating. This is why I was never a fan of putting in colder thermostats, especially those with a 4.7L. Also why I don't run conventional oil... it tends to coagulate and create sludge, unlike full syn.
Last edited by Dodgevity; 05-22-2019 at 12:55 PM.
#12
Side question regarding the steering/suspension upgrade. Looks like I am having to replace the bushings on my power rack on my 2000 4.7l Durango. Did you replace the power rack and pinion and if so was it possible to drop it out prior to completely disassembling the front end? Going to have to try and replace it one side at a time if possible...thanks in advance. And I will be digging in the forums prior to starting...need to clear working space and get that damn 5.9 2000 D out of the driveway
Steve
Steve
I had had to replace the steering rack because I still had clicking noise and slop even with new bushings. I think I found it for $80 refurbished on amazon.
If you’re going that far I suggest doing sway bar bushings, I used pro-thane I think. I like polyurethane bushings but rubber works fine.
Let me know if you have more questions!
#13
#14
here are some progress pics towards the end. More to come!
Fuel/ignition done, just air/water left!
Air/water done, now to chase gremlins
Just a few hours of locating plugs, I forgot to plug in the oil pressure switch, fuel vent solenoid, and crank position sensor and it fired up! Let it idle an hour and burped the coolant. Took her for a spin and topped everything off. Now to get it registered and inspected (Maryland, ugh ):
#15
Youre right, although I had 100,000 more miles than you did. Also this truck was used for off-roading very frequently, so bushings, bearings, joints and suspension should wear faster. The engine could have been overhauled but I expected that to take longer than replacing it.
#16
Oil gets water in it, if engine is not warmed up well. Maybe your engine is OK. Anyway you have to diagnose problem first, repair later. Compression test, wet compression test, check spark plugs, check codes. Act smart, get service manual.
Usually people don't repair cars for fun.
Usually people don't repair cars for fun.
#17
Water gets in the oil from condensation every time you start a cold engine. Think of a cold block with hot combustion chambers... like cold water sitting in a glass. The water evaporates when your engine gets hot enough. This is why folks who mostly do quick trips, should change their oil on a shorter schedule. If you're constantly doing five minute trips around town, the water starts accumulating. This is why I was never a fan of putting in colder thermostats, especially those with a 4.7L. Also why I don't run conventional oil... it tends to coagulate and create sludge, unlike full syn.
I have heard synthetic isnt isn’t recommended for break-in but with the additive I feel ok doing it because then the engine will have only ever seen royal purple, and I don’t need to worry as much about compatibility or contamination.
#18
#20