ok, so the carb was leaking air b/c i had to feather the gas to get it going so i assumed it was leaking letting too much air. anyways it was the day for me to drive back to school and i had no choice but to use RVT b/c no carb rebuilds were in stock. so i cleaned it and put it back together, but in the process i think i messed ip the float level (i think), so when i start it now since it is getting too much gas? i have to put the pedal to the floor and starts, but if it has been running it starts fine. but the think is i didnt notice before was that when it is at idle in park and possible drive and it sits for a second or a minute and i give it a little gas it smokes more than it should and is pretty noticible and wondering if that has to do with the carb being too rich, i also did not see an air mixture screw ( i work at a harly shop and only do motorcycle carbs), also when i start it cold (sitting one day or so) it starts up fine with pedal to floor then let off and goes to high idle, but if i give it a little gas after i start it it comes off of high idle (high idle is the same as choke?) and almost barely dies but stays running, is that also normal? thanks so much for all the input- nick oh and it also as i can remember or noticed if you read my other thread never used to burn this much oil until the oil was over filled and i think that is when it started burning excess oil

 

forgot to mention it is a 318

 

RVT is probably the worst thing you could have used on the carb, gas being a solvent,and excellent for getting RVT off your hands, begins to break down the RVT instantly and gums the carb up.Now if you tore the carb down and used it though out, there is a good chance that it is getting in to the needle and seat and causing flooding, which would explain the hard starting and the smoking. Secondly you could have messed the float level up and this compounds the problem. The first thing I would personally do is not drive the truck until yu can locate a carb kit. If you have a dip tank at work, and the boss is permitting, boil the carb out over night and make sure to get all of the RVT residue out before rebuilding. As for the oil burning issue, normally when a vehicle is overfilled with oil, it tends to blow the rear main seals. Does it leave puddles under the back of the motor,a dn is the tranny covered in oil?

 

underneath the whole rear was covered in oil including rear end gear ball, it seems to run fine when started, but i will do that as soon as possible, also i have just a 40 series flowmaster no emissions, and when started cold sounds really choppy and sharper tone (at idle with out giving any gas after started) which i like but when i give it gas and start driving there is no noticeable tone as like when it started cold, could that also be from running too rich because i miss the louder more choppy tone? i am also about to get an edelbrock performer intake and 4barrel 600cfm carb for it

 

Indeed running rich can effect the smoothness of its idle giving you the rumble. I would be willing to bet that you indeed have blown the rear main seal from what you have described. It wont effect how the engine runs, only how often you need to refill the oil.

 

so the rear main seal lets the oil into the engine and causes it to burn, and it also causes the leakage of the oil? and the rear main seal most likely is messed up because of the oil being overfull? thanks a lot, and how hard is it for me to fix it, or how much generally would a shop cost for the replacement of it? thanks a lot

 

I apoligise for any misunderstanding. No the rear main does not allow oil into the engine to be burned. It is simply and basicly a rubber seal that fits around the rear of the crankshaft just ahead of the fly wheel and keeps the oil in the crank case. When overfilled pressure builds in the crankcase and the seal being slightly flexable is the weak point. Here is a site I found showing the removal and replacement of a rear main seal in a 318 http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/rearmain.php as for the engine burning oil, that normally tends to be broken oil rings or worn valve guides. However if your rear main is blown, your losing about 95% of your oil right there and when replaced I doubt youd see that drastic of oil consumption.

 

The rear main seal keeps the oil in the engine. When the engine is over filled with oil there is added pressure on the seal that can cause the seal to blow out and then the oil leaks out of the engine. Once the level of oil is corrected there is no burning of oil just leaking. If you do not have a shop manual where you can read and understand how the seal is replaced do not attempt this on your own. I have seen many cases where all that work was wasted because this or that was not done correctly and the new seal leaked the same or worse. Call a couple of local shops for estimates as this is a repair that goes pretty much by the book with a skilled mechanic.

 

83 good post. I was typing while you were posting. The only thing I would add to that web site is a warning on the possibility of the pan gasket falling in the pan during installation as it is very common. PS it is RTV not RVT. lol

 

Now for something completely off track. When I was posting previously I mentioned RVT which is also sometimes refered to as Blue Goo, or Smurf S**t. Also available in Hard setting black and high temp red. When I noticed your response to calling it RTV so on a whim I looked it up. Well I was slightly shocked to find both are correct. They are both silicone gasket makers.