I have a 2000 4.7 4x4 automatic quad-cab, with the 4x4 shifter on the floor. I went into 4-hi the other day on a trail, under very light and slow load, and the 4x4 light came on as usual. It almost immediately went out, and I could tell I was no longer in 4x4. I grabbed the floor shifter to make sure I had it in, and it was very loose-feeling, no resistance to it like it used to have. I could literally fling it back and forth from 4lo to 4hi (opposite ends of the throw). From what I can see through the hole in the boot, the arm and rod that goes into the trans looks fine, but it won't go into 4x4, and it feels like it isn't connected to anything. Any help is VERY appreciated!!

 

Master Tech - do you approve of this DIY automatic transmission flush method?

1) if it has a replaceable filter drop the pan and do that first, then reinstall the pan and refill to the proper level.
2) disconnect the ATF lines at the cooler.
3) assistant starts the engine for a couple seconds then shuts it off. One of the lines will suck air, the other will (slowly) squirt fluid. Reconnect the line that sucks (to suck the cooler dry).
4) connect 2 feet of clear hose to the ATF line that squirts. Put the other end in a 1 gallon oil jug with quart markings (or a bucket you put quart markings on with a marker).
5) assistant puts on the parking brake and starts the engine
6) when the bucket has about 1/2 quart, start pouring more in the fill tube. You should have 1 quart of new in when the bucket has quart in it.
7) After a quart or two the assistant starts shifting through the gears (L, D, R, etc). Don't move the vehicle, and don't rev it up, just let it idle while going through the gears.
8) continue adding ATF at the pace it flows out until you see the fluid brighten thats coming out the clear hose (that's why you want clear).
9) Reconnect the other squirting cooler line and check the ATF level.

I've done it before, and plan on doing to the Dakota. Just curious if you see any dangers here...

Thanks!

 

I have 2002 Dak Sport. 4.7L with a 5speed. I've done an SAS and overall lift of about 9-10". While driving it the other day I noticed a "click/knock" coming from the underside. I assumed it was the U-Joint(s) but after inspecting them I decided they were fine. Put it all back together and still got the noise. I decided to put it in 4-high (I have no front drive shaft atm) and the noise stopped. Does anyone have an idea...? Doesn't make sense if it's the u-joints and the nosie stops when the transfer case is engaged.

 

I have a 2003 durango with 2wd and a 4.7 engine. My reverse lights don't work. Tests indicate it is the position sensor on the valve body. Is this replacement something that can be done at home or do I need to take it to a shop?
Thanks

 

Hey Master Tech,

You have a lot of knowledge to share. I've got a quick question before I start poking around my truck. When the engine is cold, the transmission won't shift into drive for a few seconds, and then the acceleration is real gradual. Once it's warmed up it functions fine. Any ideas?
It's a '01 Dakota with the following:


4-Spd. Automatic 46RE Transmission
Lock-Up Torque Converter
Elec,Shift-on-the-Fly,F/Time T/Case
205MM Front Axle
3.55 Rear Axle Ratio
Corporate 8.25 Rear Axle
Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle
AWD
5.9L V8


Thanks!

 

Has the fluid and filter(s) been changed? If mine is extremely cold it seems to wind out a little more than normal. I think it is just cold fluid??? I change my fluid and filter about every 30-35K miles so it should be in pretty fair shape. I am going to change it again this spring.

 

i have a 1999 dodge Dakota 3.9L v6 2wd and i found a 96' dakota v8 with the 4x4 transmission transfer case the whole works, and i was wondering if it would even be possible to use that to make my 99' a 4x4 truck

 

For those that have the same question, The answer from Master Tech was:

This a common function with these transmissions. The valve body has a temp sensor that will let the transmission know it has reach operation fluid temperature. When the transmission fluid reaches its operation temp, then the valve body will allow the transmission to shift into overdrive.

Thank You Sir!

 

Master Tech:

I have been searching for the band adjustment procedure for my 1997 Dakota Sport:

5.2L
4x4
tow package
44RE (that is what is shows in the glove box)

I am getting different numbers on the number of turns out after torquing the bands to 72 in lbs. Can you give me the procedure for my truck? I have also seen something about different bands in the Dakota and I don't know how to tell what kind of bands I have. I am not having problems that I know of, but at almost 100,000 miles and a couple of fluid changes, it seems to be time to adjust the bands. I don't want to cause problems that I don't have and I hope I have given you the info that you need to help me. Do I need any special tools? Your help is greatly appreciated.

 

Hi guys, I'm new to the Dakota forum. Sure hope someone has an answer to my problem,all help appreciated. 2001 Dodge Dakota Quad cab 50,000 miles,V6,with the auto. trans. It stumbles when up-shifting into 3rd and o/d when warmed up. Doesn't seem to happen when fluid is cold. The "stumble"(like a hiccup) that I'm referring to results in a rough shift shaking the truck slightly,but it always does complete the shift. It doesn't seem to occur on the downshift. It's always the 3rd/od up shift.
I replaced the TPS a few years ago to fix a stumble problem when cruising at highway speeds.
Last edited by dodgem39; Yesterday at 04:18 PM.