brake issue 99 dakota sport
#1
brake issue 99 dakota sport
ok,I replaced all the lines that go to the front of the truck...new calipers and pads..Lines bled out as usuall...Yesterday the wife said she lost the brakes again..Thinking it might be the line going to the back.So I checked it tonight..I see no sign of fluid anywhere...The resevore was almost empty..
Where did the fluid go..Shouldn't I be able to see it around the fram or the wheels if it were leaking in these areas? Where do I go from here now...This truck only has like 79000 on it...Help me out if you can..John
Where did the fluid go..Shouldn't I be able to see it around the fram or the wheels if it were leaking in these areas? Where do I go from here now...This truck only has like 79000 on it...Help me out if you can..John
#2
#3
#4
This. If the drums were leaking enough to drain the MC, you'd have puddles of a significant size. More likely, you have a power booster full of fluid. Enjoy- It is not fun.
#5
#7
ok brakes
ok well first things first with the design of the master on this truck the fluid will run down the firewall and hit the exhaust and burn so its probably not that. and to replace the booster is 6 bolts and 1 clip. i actually just replaced mine last week. now if you had a line go out the pvalve probably limited the front brakes so the rear were doing all the stopping. when you bleed the brakes you would bleed normal once the valve opened it tookl the fluid and pushed the air to the rear and probably some to the front as well. i would state by opening all the bleeders and letting gravity pull some fluid continue to top off the fluid. then once there is fluid at all the tires starting with the right rear then the left rear then the right front then the left front. bleed all the brakes again. also remember that dirty brake fluid can cause a ****ty peddle.
if this doesnt help you may have a bad master. they tend to start to take on air where the container hooks up. also if you live anywhere in New York or at least most of ny we use salt on our roads in the winter so brake lines rot out really quick. i actually replaced mine with copper (costed an *** load but works well)
wheel cylinder rubbers use a flat screw driver and pull the flap back if it full of fluid replace them do them both its better and there cheap. Rockauto.com best place for parts online i have found.
i hope this helps.
matt
if this doesnt help you may have a bad master. they tend to start to take on air where the container hooks up. also if you live anywhere in New York or at least most of ny we use salt on our roads in the winter so brake lines rot out really quick. i actually replaced mine with copper (costed an *** load but works well)
wheel cylinder rubbers use a flat screw driver and pull the flap back if it full of fluid replace them do them both its better and there cheap. Rockauto.com best place for parts online i have found.
i hope this helps.
matt
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#8
every leaky wheel cylinder I've had, left a puddle under the drum when parked. Or at the very least, left a mark on the tire a-la a leaky axle seal.
#9
ok well first things first with the design of the master on this truck the fluid will run down the firewall and hit the exhaust and burn so its probably not that. and to replace the booster is 6 bolts and 1 clip. i actually just replaced mine last week. now if you had a line go out the pvalve probably limited the front brakes so the rear were doing all the stopping. when you bleed the brakes you would bleed normal once the valve opened it tookl the fluid and pushed the air to the rear and probably some to the front as well. i would state by opening all the bleeders and letting gravity pull some fluid continue to top off the fluid. then once there is fluid at all the tires starting with the right rear then the left rear then the right front then the left front. bleed all the brakes again. also remember that dirty brake fluid can cause a ****ty peddle.
if this doesnt help you may have a bad master. they tend to start to take on air where the container hooks up. also if you live anywhere in New York or at least most of ny we use salt on our roads in the winter so brake lines rot out really quick. i actually replaced mine with copper (costed an *** load but works well)
wheel cylinder rubbers use a flat screw driver and pull the flap back if it full of fluid replace them do them both its better and there cheap. Rockauto.com best place for parts online i have found.
i hope this helps.
matt
if this doesnt help you may have a bad master. they tend to start to take on air where the container hooks up. also if you live anywhere in New York or at least most of ny we use salt on our roads in the winter so brake lines rot out really quick. i actually replaced mine with copper (costed an *** load but works well)
wheel cylinder rubbers use a flat screw driver and pull the flap back if it full of fluid replace them do them both its better and there cheap. Rockauto.com best place for parts online i have found.
i hope this helps.
matt
#10
when you say gravity bled, do you mean you just let the bleeders hang open until fluid came out? We always pressure bleed with the down-open-close-up method using two people. It forces the air out instead of letting the air float to the top of the lines, making the problem worse. I'm wondering if that is your problem.