So I'll just start off and say that I LOVE the 4.7 that Dodge plopped into the Durangos and Dakota's, and I wish FCA would have continued their production but upped the displacement options like 5.2, 6.0 and so on.

So I just got the truck repainted, put it all back together and boom, rolling steam out of the exhaust, coolant purging from the radiator, I've got a problem.

So I figured it's either a head gasket, or a cracked cylinder head. My biggest question it what should I do.

• Do I repair the engine, replace the heads and/or gaskets
• Do I the replace the whole engine with a standard 4.7
• Swap it out for a new to me HO

 

Do a compression test, see how many cylinders are bad. Decide from there. If you elect to replace it with an HO motor.... (sounds like a winner to me. ) don't forget you will need the programming for that as well.

 

I'll admit the 4.7 is a fun engine but a bit thirsty. That doesn't have anything to do with my lead heavy right foot. What year is your truck. The symptoms you have are classic blown head gasket. The 4.7 is prone to those. The reason I ask what year is the 2003 engine is different from the 2002 and earlier. The older engine has a 16 tooth toner ring and the newer has a 32 tooth. The computers are NOT the same so they don't interchange. If the truck is in good enough condition, I'd replace the engine with a rebuilt unit. If, and I do mean IF, you can find a good used engine, you might want to pick that up. If the truck is serviceable but still a bit rough, I'd pull the heads and replace the head gaskets after checking the heads for cracks and the block for true when the heads mount.

 

Compression test, check. I'll get on that when I have some free time.

I'll probably do a reprogram anyways, the ECU in the truck currently doesn't match the VIN and wasn't programmed (I think the gear ratio is off in the computer)

Yes, she is thirsty, even tuned for fuel mileage she is thirsty. I've got an 03, with the 32 tooth engine, ECU has 4 plugs. I literally had it repainted last week, this is the first major issue I've encountered with this truck. I did valve cover gaskets and those were a PITA with the booster in the way and such. It might take the same amount of labor to pull the engine as it would the heads, I might just go that route.

 

I'd pull the engine. You can work on it better on an engine stand and do a better job. More labor but less aggravation. If the engine isn't salvageable, you're halfway to swapping engines. When I first got my '02 Ram, I didn't know if I could save the engine. All I found were '03 up engines. Used engines were almost as much as a rebuilt unit. Since it sounds like you're making your rig into a really nice one, with the engine out, you can clean up and otherwise detail the engine bay.

 

Neither of the above. I repaired my HG issue years ago for about 20 bucks and didnt need to pull the head. Still driving it 60k later. Get some K&W permanent block seal and follow the instructions, except for the part where u drain it out 20 min later. Drive with it 500 miles before draining. Don't get the type u add to coolant, get the one u run with plain water. U got nothing to lose.

 

I've got Irontite in it now, **** that KW stuff, it destroyed my radiator and heater core in my Subaru. I rather fix it the right way rather than bandaid it for ever.

 

Except heat in the winter when the core plugs up. I don't like "magic" fixes. They tend to look good but fail at inopportune times.

 

Actually, I disconnected the core and looped the heater hoses while applying. This is not the leave in solution so it's all good. No clog. Anyway, it worked great for me so I'm happy and it's my DD today. The other choice was spending thousands or throwing away an otherwise good engine. You choose.

 

I see you're in Atlanta. I guess the gentler winters will allow you to do that. Here in Indiana, a heater is a must. Yes, you can put on gloves and a coat but when its 5 degrees and a windchill of -10, you need a heater if for no other reason than to clear the windshield.