Well the $100 Dakota was towed to the house and unloaded. All the typical things that could possibly go wrong were right on time... LOL
Bought a new battery, turned the key, clunk, clunk... Engine is seized. Sure didn't see that coming. The strange thing is when I went over to initially look at the truck I found a paper that had compression results written down between 120 and 150 which indicates it turned over then. coolant was full and has fairly clean oil. Based on that I thought well maybe a crank sensor and pulled the trigger.
I have started cleaning the rodent debris out from under the hood in prep to pressure wash the engine and see if I can somehow free the motor up... I was told it sat for 3 years, soooooo.....
I hopped on the Google machine to see if I could find a complete 4.7 locally and there isn't one to be found of course.

My question is, generally speaking is it more cost effective to get a complete engine of take the time and attempt rebuilding this one. I understand all the variables.
Overall I am really happy with the truck. Body is very straight, paint is good, interior is fine for its age and everything works.

 

Have you tried soaking the cylinders in trans fluid? Could be stuck rings

 

Try turning it by hand using a breaker bar.

 

that would be nice!!

 

I went to HF today and purchased a 1/2 inch breaker bar and 32mm impact socket will pull plugs in the morning and see how that goes. Bought a Husky air compressor off FB so I am getting ready. The history on this truck is very sketchy. Thanks to everyone for your input.

 

Before you go reefing on the crank bolt trying to turn the engine, be sure to take the serpentine belt off as well. I have seen seized alternators make folks think their engine was locked up........

 

I will take that advice!!! This is a crazy project for sure with a confusing background. Keep in mind the vehicle has been sitting 3 years but nothing I am seeing is adding up. The oil is clean, altho has a gas smell to it. Radiator is full with coolant/water mix. Fan clutch is tight, doesn't indicate it has been overheated. The vehicle "appears" to have been appropriately maintained. I bought this truck as a hobby project to use as a dump run and to get a bag of ice, fishin' trip now and then truck.
Anywho...
The bed and the cab was packed with parts ranging from an instrument cluster, water pump, brake drums, tail light housings, a radiator, rear-end U-bolts, tires and rims a hood, (none of which appear to come from this truck) you get the idea the list goes on. Even with that the interior is surprisingly clean.
There is a sheet of paper with compression test results list that are eh not terribly bad, which indicated to me the motor turned over at the time. I figured it might be as simple as a crank sensor or fuel pump. There were 7 spark plugs (8 empty boxes0 (hmmmmmm) in the cab that are in very good shape, no indication of oil at all.
The top of the engine had a huge rats nest on top. (I wish I had taken a pic, it was amazing) most of the plastic intake stuff was removed previously. The top of the air filter was packed with debris the rodent dragged in and the bottom of the housing filled with rodent crap. No wiring has been chewed. Nothing appears to have made it past the throttle plate.
I started blowing off the top of the engine in preparation to pull the plugs and noticed what appears to be an oil/water/sludge mix on top of cyl 4,6 and 8. When I get that cleaned out I will pull plugs.
My gut feeling is that the pistons are froze up in the cylinders for what ever reason or there is a timing chain issue that caused a piston the bend a valve.
Let the adventure begin.


one plug missing

 

Sensor or fuel pump won't stop the engine from cranking. That's gonna be a mechanical issue.

 

correct.... I wasn't able to turn the motor over at the time because the battery was completely dead and seeing the compression results lead me to believe the motor DID turn over, and it may have at that time. The plot thickens

 

If something the little cheese thief brought in was solid and fell through an open valve, this will lock the engine. i.e. a really solid nut will be enough to stop a piston at the top of it's stroke, especially if it jams the valve open. I believe the 4.7 is an interference engine. As for swapping the 4.7, you'll need to get one with a 16 tooth stator ring. Later ones were 32 I believe. I haven't worked with the newer generation engines much. I dealt with one and only one 4.7.