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Mine (map) arrived yesterday. Will be putting it in later. We'll see if it makes a difference.
TPS is about 7 years old.
O2 sensors are a year old.
IAC valve is 2 years old.
Plugs have around 14K on them
Crank sensor is original
All sensors are Mopar... this MAP is Delphi.
Edit:
So I can tell right away this won't be fun. First, it looks like someone may have messed with or changed the sensor at one point., One of the bolts is missing and God knows what that thing is they substituted with it.
Pull the hat off if you have one and use one of these to pull the sensor. Not difficult at all and what you show there I have seen on engines in the yards. Mine has 2 bolts and you want the t20 bit. the one below came from Harbor Frieght
I've read this is how they original are mounted, just one bolt and a stud, it will stay seated because of the O-ring and just have to stay in place with the pressure of the "one" bolt, should be okay.
You're right. It was a stud and a single bolt. I was thrown off by a youtube video with a 2001 Durango. His was also missing a screw, but he had no stud as you can see in the screen grab below. He proceeded to install two Dorman bolts he purchased. So looks like the earlier years have two screws. Also he used a T25 torx and mine was T20.
For those doing this... best thing to do is stick a rag or towel down below as it's a tight spot and very easy to drop the bolt into the abyss. I always put a bit of dielectric grease on plugs and O-rings.
I reset the truck by pulling the neg terminal, shorting with the positive and turned the key to start position to dispel any static charge. Going by the seat of my pants, it does feel a bit more powerful and I definitely observed an even smoother idle than before. I can no longer hear the stuff I have in the door pockets vibrating...LOL
Will let y'all know if mpg improves.
Was I supposed to reset the comp? (lol) If I pull the neg terminal on the battery my clock on the stereo gets reset, that would cause me to go dig up the manual out of the glovebox to learn how to set it lol... ...man IDK about that lol
OH and on the sensor bolts, they are long enough to easily grab once it is free... I used a long handle T25 after I broke them free with the smaller tool. It took longer to put the air hat on & off.
I'm tempted to put the JTCM in there while I do the sensors...
Took some Torque pictures, most of them are in Metric, converted them in the photo frame.
Took them 10 minutes ago, i had to work today, this is a 26 Mile drive home and about 2 hours later at 32 F i took the pics.
I have an old phone mounted on the radio space, don't have a radio anymore This is my home screen, i've drove 25 miles and have it sit for 2 hours in 0 Celcius ( 32 F ) outside, before i took the pics at idle. GPS Speed, Revs Counter, Intake Air Temperature 104 F, Coolant Temperature 126 F and Clock. Throttle ?? Timing, Intake Pressure, Vacuum, Volts and Fuel Consumption 19.9 mpg Fuel Remaining, Miles remaining 170 Miles, Ride Consumption, Trip 26 Miles
just did my magnet test with razor blade on both standard motor products crank & cam sensors and they met my expectation. magnets appear to have decent strength. when i used the ntks on the ram they set the ce light right away, did this same test to compare against the originals, the replacemets and the ntks. the originals were still better than the ntks but not better than the new ones from cummins.
seeing the strength of the SMPs gives me a warm fuzzy feeling to do the install
