The other day, it was about -5 here in sunny West Virginia. I discovered that my antifreeze mix had too much water when it froze. I, of course, did not realize it had frozen until I had no heat. The temp gauge normally runs less than half, but it was now right at halfway. I stopped the truck, and a passerby had antifreeze with him that I added to both the reservoir and the hose under the cap. I attempted to drive home (<10 miles) and did not make it. Truck shut itself down about 5 miles from home. Would not restart at that time. That afternoon, we arrived with a rollback to tow it home. It did start, but sounded horrible, like a kids bicycle wheel with a playing card. Put it in the heated garage, and after two days, tried to start again. Started, and ran sounding much better, but still not right. Started looking on line for replacement engines. Now, it starts (hard) and runs, but not right, and if you don't stay after it with gas pedal, it will die. Neighbor thinks it's running too rich. Btw, checked antifreeze with a ball gauge (?) And it indicated protection to -10. What should I start looking at? Back in heated garage where I plan to change all fluids, spark plugs and wire set.
info:
2000 Dakota, ext cab
4x4
3.9 l v-6 vin code x

 

Check your oil. See what it looks like.

 

You nailed it. I am now the proud owner of blown head gaskets. Time to find a motor.

 

Is coolant coming out of the engine while it sits? You might have gotten lucky and just lost a head gasket. I'd pull it and put it on an engine stand and check the block for cracks. Especially around the expansion plugs on the sides. Any distortion or cracking there and you have a nice little custom boat anchor.

At least the 3.9 is a fairly common engine. Especially considering the age of the truck.

 

If it turns out the head gasket is truly blown, you've got nothing to lose.

Do what I did eight years ago and run some K&W block seal in it, which should stop the leak. There are different types made by K&W, but you want the green bottle that you flush out the coolant first in order to use. The leave-in stuff you add to coolant may clog up your heater core. I also suggest you run it or 500 miles as I did, before draining. Not the 20 min stated on the bottle. Of course, you'll need to do all this when the weather warms as the water will freeze in the block. Also you need a few weeks to let it dry out after draining, so you'll need another vehicle in the meantime.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...t-options.html

 

Sounds a bit too good to be true. I am (per usual) assuming the worst, that the heads are warped. How would this stuff know where to seal? Is it a "permanent" solution, or a temporary fix? Regardless, I'll look for it.

 

I've seen mixed results for block sealers through the years. Barr's leak seals pretty good but is known to plug heater cores. I've also seen people try to fix head gaskets and if it's just a pin hole fail, they work. Cracked heads, not so much. I think the most cost effective course would be an engine swap. The heads and block would need to be magnafluxed to be an engine you rely on. If it were my engine, I'd worry about cracks in the sides of the block around the casting holes. Those don't have pressure like the cylinders but when they DO fail, you have a catastrophic failure.

 

It thought it was too good to be true too. It didn't work till the second time I used it, driving with it for 500 mi. It seals by flowing out into the crack or space and turning to glass infused with bits of melting copper and it does so in the hottest part, which is the head. I used it back in 2016 and my truck is running great with 341K on it now. If the heads were warped, it wouldn't matter, the stuff flows into spaces. Just don't use that bars leak stuff that stays in. The KW is used with water, then flushed out at the end.

I've got no benefit from you using it. Just trying to give you good advice. If an expensive engine swap is your first option, have at it.

Sure, an engine swap would be great but not before trying a $26 product. Like I said, nothing to lose. If it doesn't work, the engine can still be swapped or rebuilt.

 

that is stupid, it is easier to swap the head gaskets, it is not a difficult job and could be done in a day if not needing head work. With the heads being iron it may not need anything but the gaskets. One recommendation is to get new head bolts.

 

The more I thought about it, the more I realized it would be rather idiotic not to try it. I have a bottle ordered that will be here tomorrow. So curious about the steps. Thinking, drain and flush cooling and oil systems. Replace oil and filter, use product CORRECTLY, (seems like a lot of the reviews stress following directions exactly), idle for 20 minutes, change oil again ( since I doubt it works instantly, and more coolant will leak into oil) then leave for 500 miles, drain and flush both systems again, then pray? Sound about right?