Neon '04 "Jumping" Problem
#1
Neon '04 "Jumping" Problem
Hello! Hopefully someone here can assist me in figuring out what is going on!
I have a Dodge 2004 Neon with about 76,000 miles on it. Over the past two-three months, at random times, my car goes into a fit. Here is a description:
It can start randomly while driving or begin right when I turn on the car.
The "malfunction" or "check engine" light will come on. Whenever I am accelerating between 15mph-45mph, it will begin to "jump" or "sputter". I am not sure how to describe it. Basically it won't accelerate anymore and will jerk forward. Once I take my foot off the gas, for a splick second, and then reapply pressure to the gas, it will go fine...then a few seconds later it will jerk forward..take my foot off the gas and then its fine...once I hit about 45mph it is fine. If i have to slow down or stop it will do it again...then it magically just fixes itself for a week, two weeks, until whenever it decides to act up.
I can't really take it to a shop because the engine light always goes off once it stops sputtering or jerking forward!
Help?
I have a Dodge 2004 Neon with about 76,000 miles on it. Over the past two-three months, at random times, my car goes into a fit. Here is a description:
It can start randomly while driving or begin right when I turn on the car.
The "malfunction" or "check engine" light will come on. Whenever I am accelerating between 15mph-45mph, it will begin to "jump" or "sputter". I am not sure how to describe it. Basically it won't accelerate anymore and will jerk forward. Once I take my foot off the gas, for a splick second, and then reapply pressure to the gas, it will go fine...then a few seconds later it will jerk forward..take my foot off the gas and then its fine...once I hit about 45mph it is fine. If i have to slow down or stop it will do it again...then it magically just fixes itself for a week, two weeks, until whenever it decides to act up.
I can't really take it to a shop because the engine light always goes off once it stops sputtering or jerking forward!
Help?
#3
#6
Checking/changing the plugs is fairly straightforward.
You'll need a standard 3/8" ratchet, a 12" extension and a 5/8" spark plug socket with the rubber insert.
First thing, when looking at the engine, here are the spark plug wires (outlined in red):
Go ahead and twist them left and right a bit first to loosen them, then pull up using the rubber tops (the round part on top). They should, perhaps with a little bit of force, pop off. You'll see the spark plug at the bottom of each tube. Using the ratchet, extension and socket, take each one out (NOTE: the engine should be completely cold when doing this).
Here is a spark plug reading chart:
Basically, the plug shouldn't be all torn up or covered in oil/deposits. However, over time, the center electrode wears which increases the gap (bad) and becomes rounded (not the best; can be seen in the above photo of the "normal plug"). At this point, if you haven't ever changed the plugs, might as well gap and install new ones. A gapping tool costs ~$1. Pretty easy to use, though most spark plugs come pre-gapped at what the Neon calls for. You could just install them and you'll probably be fine. Installation is simply reverse of removal.
You have a friend who could come over and help you out with it? It really isn't that hard once you figure it out.
As for the wires, you just undo both ends and then put the new ones on in the reverse order of removal. Make sure the wires, new or used, make a "snap" sound when you push them onto the terminals.
You'll need a standard 3/8" ratchet, a 12" extension and a 5/8" spark plug socket with the rubber insert.
First thing, when looking at the engine, here are the spark plug wires (outlined in red):
Go ahead and twist them left and right a bit first to loosen them, then pull up using the rubber tops (the round part on top). They should, perhaps with a little bit of force, pop off. You'll see the spark plug at the bottom of each tube. Using the ratchet, extension and socket, take each one out (NOTE: the engine should be completely cold when doing this).
Here is a spark plug reading chart:
Basically, the plug shouldn't be all torn up or covered in oil/deposits. However, over time, the center electrode wears which increases the gap (bad) and becomes rounded (not the best; can be seen in the above photo of the "normal plug"). At this point, if you haven't ever changed the plugs, might as well gap and install new ones. A gapping tool costs ~$1. Pretty easy to use, though most spark plugs come pre-gapped at what the Neon calls for. You could just install them and you'll probably be fine. Installation is simply reverse of removal.
You have a friend who could come over and help you out with it? It really isn't that hard once you figure it out.
As for the wires, you just undo both ends and then put the new ones on in the reverse order of removal. Make sure the wires, new or used, make a "snap" sound when you push them onto the terminals.
#7
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#8
You're welcome! One trick with the spark plug socket too...
There are two different kinds. One has the rubber piece near the top of the socket, while the other has it in the middle (for short spark plugs, like on lawnmowers and such). Generally, if you go to an automotive parts store and buy one, it should be the correct one. Anyways, that little rubber insert likes to come out of the socket. So, when you reinstall the spark plug, and pull the socket up, the rubber piece sticks onto the plug and you have to take the plug back out to get the piece and hope it doesn't do it again. The trick is to pull the rubber piece out of the socket, coat the outside with a decent amount of super glue, and use a pencil or something to push it all the way back into the socket. Let it sit for a while and dry, and you should have that problem anymore.
The other option is to buy one of these:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W85000/
With one of those, you simple loosen the plug with a 5/8" deep socket, push that down onto the spark plug, and it will pull it out. When you install the plug, you just push the top into it, lower it to the hole, start to thread it in a bit, and then pull it off. An even better option possibly for the Neon since the plugs are so far down in the tubes (I don't know how long that tool is), is you can also just take a spark plug to a parts store, and buy ~1.5' of tubing that fits over the top of the plug like that tool would, and use that instead.
There are two different kinds. One has the rubber piece near the top of the socket, while the other has it in the middle (for short spark plugs, like on lawnmowers and such). Generally, if you go to an automotive parts store and buy one, it should be the correct one. Anyways, that little rubber insert likes to come out of the socket. So, when you reinstall the spark plug, and pull the socket up, the rubber piece sticks onto the plug and you have to take the plug back out to get the piece and hope it doesn't do it again. The trick is to pull the rubber piece out of the socket, coat the outside with a decent amount of super glue, and use a pencil or something to push it all the way back into the socket. Let it sit for a while and dry, and you should have that problem anymore.
The other option is to buy one of these:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W85000/
With one of those, you simple loosen the plug with a 5/8" deep socket, push that down onto the spark plug, and it will pull it out. When you install the plug, you just push the top into it, lower it to the hole, start to thread it in a bit, and then pull it off. An even better option possibly for the Neon since the plugs are so far down in the tubes (I don't know how long that tool is), is you can also just take a spark plug to a parts store, and buy ~1.5' of tubing that fits over the top of the plug like that tool would, and use that instead.
#9