Got the front shocks done. Sure look better! Beautiful silver monotube shocks. Really set off my red springs. Did some touch up painting also but for the most part, not a bad job. Haven't driven it yet as rush hour is starting at Boeing so it will be a while before I can test them out.

Pro tip: the shock bolts like to rust in the middle where the metal bushing sits. This makes them very difficult to remove even when the nut is off. Once out, I cleaned them with a steel brush and gooped the whole bolt in anti-sieze. Hoping the next time I need shocks the bolts won't be such a b!tch.

 

Got a deal on a set of the Mopar Performance valve covers off Craigslist today and now I'm seeing no one has the grommets for them available. Does Dorman or someone make an equivalent to the P5249642?

 

I couldn't find any one who made evivalents. Got lucky and HiPoTek had a kit with bolts, grommets and baffels. Now I have exta baffels and bolts, but I didn't have to wait for the grommets! :-)

 

Thanks found the link for the set in their online store, just not sure if I want to spend $60 for grommets...that's damn near as much as I got the valve covers for lol

 

put about 150 miles on her yesterday as I ran to pick up a seat for my Harley
truck really rides and handles great even in down pouring rain which was most of the trip yesterday..


fuel mileage definitely up since the 10" x 2.75" round ac swap out from stock box
last tankful gave 13.83 MPG of mixed ( 60 miles of highway and 120 miles of city) driving

 

Hauled a full load of some free cherry logs for firewood. Even with the add a leaf she was almost bottomed out, but for free wood and a good reason to fire up the saw I couldn't pass it up. Now I just need to split it so I can get it out of the driveway and put away.

 

1. Changed the oil to Mobile One synthetic high mileage 5w-30
2. Changed out spark plugs: Champion copper plus spark plugs (RC12MCC4)
3. Replaced PVC valve

 

I got to venture into the wonderful world of wheel joint replacements over the weekend. Original driver side wheel joint broke and started to crack the housing. Once I got in there I discovered the original wheel bearing which was shot, and a broken caliper piston seal. Brakes were easy, the wheel bearing took a sledge, heat, and a 5 ton puller to finally break it out, got the axle out and the joint was so rusted in I couldn't beat it out even after using a torch. Next morning I took it to a local shop and as he'stryijf to press this wheel joint out the cap explodes but the sides of the cap are still stuck to the axle ears so he had to chisle them out and clean up everything. Got everything back together only to find that the passenger side brake hose is bad and is restricting fluid to the caliper making it pull to the driver side still....

 

If one hose is bad, replace them both. Save yourself the aggravation of having to do it again later.

 

Most of the time you can pop the wheel bearing out using a short impact extension. Thread the bolts in half way, put the extension on, then turn the steering wheel (while it's on Jack stands) until it presses into the axle to pop it loose.