Me gusta.

 

I can squeeze out just over 300 on the interstate now

Purty!

How's it sound?

 

It's quiet, not much louder than stock really. But that is exactly what I wanted. Seems strange but it seems like the flow rate is better, more pressure from the tail pipe. It drones a little more than I would like, but for some reason my truck droned anyway.
I have it taken out the stock tailpipe, cost me $50 to have the muffler shop install it.

 

I bought a 94 Z28 for my driver driver...gets 23 mpg (if I stay out of it) and a hell of a lot more fun to drive than a honda.... The ram is my winter beater, mulch/appliance/lumber hauler.

 

I had one of those with the 6-spd manual...

few things I did to mine:

SLP performance straight pipe stainless exhaust, high flow stainless y pipe and cat, centerforce dual friction clutch, hotchkiss performance strut tower brace.

K&N cool air intake which actually pulled air from outside the engine compartment completely. it was a PITA to get the filter on as it uses the area in front of the left front tire for an air box.

also had a hypertech programmer on it.

did some custom HID light conversions. (you gotta break the back off the sealed beams and silicone in the bulbs, then hook up the ballast backwards to your wiring harness.)

and ran firestone firehawk SZ-50 rain racing tires (makes it hold the ground tight in the rain and helps keep it from doing unwanted fishtailing)

did a sound system too, but that was the performance type stuff...definitely get that strut tower brace...definitely improves the cars cornering ability. subframe connectors will help eliminate frame flex. and stronger 3 link will help plant the rear tires better on launches.

with all said upgrades the car ran 14 flat in the 1/4...if you did some serious upgrades you could easily bring that number down. (like GM fast burn heads, comp street/strip special cam, H-beam rods, stroker crank, comp roller rockers, springs, etc. easily bump that betty up to around 600hp)

 

The car was a mess when I got it. Dreaded misfire. Replaced the opti (and waterpump) 3 times before finding the connector at the PCM was fubar. Got that fixed, then started throwing codes for EGR, had to replace all that. New plugs/wires, just put new tires/wheels on it and replaced all the sway bar bushings and end links with urathane, new steering rack, tie rod ends and ball joints. It's a 6-speed, t-tops. Paint needs attention. Interior was redone before I bought it. Once I get it repainted, I will address other suspension upgrades and then move to the motor. It has 180k, but runs like a scalded dog stock (I do have the K&N that is located in that area you mention). I will delve into the engine later on after I get it looking right. Plan on full exhaust with headers, high flow cat, loudmouth exhaust, mild cam. Got to keep it driveable as it is my daily driver....

 

tried, they dont show up. I think theyre saved to the phone itself so when i go looking for them they dont show. After work ima upload to facebook then ill put them on photobucket.
Today i started the search for 16" rims and new tires!

 

Why?

 

Couldn't you have just used some stainless flex pipe and saved about $40? That's what I've used and never had a problem. Saves money and makes installing new mufflers and pipe as easy as it gets and you can remove it and modify as you please without any welding.

 

do yourself a favor...no headers...you do headers and replacing spark plugs and wires WILL require either pulling the exhaust or pulling the engine.

for those unfamiliar with mid 90's Z28's they have a 350 (5.7L) in them with the park plugs right next to the frame rails and the back of the motor tucked well behind the firewall...1/2 of the motor is covered by the firewall...

plugs and wires are a 6-8hr job for a professional mechanic. not by any means easy cars to work on... and that optical distributor liked slightly mentioned is on the front of the engine BEHIND the water pump...absolute PITA to work on... but damn those LT1's are strong out of the hole..they feel like they have more power than the LS1's because their power band hits to early.



oh yeah forgot to ask...since you got 6-spd did you get the skip-shift eliminator? if not, get one....eliminates that f-ing annoying skip shift blocking 2nd and 3rd gears.. its just a little pigtail that installs in the wiring to the trans that fools the computer into thinking its still hooked up so the computer cant tell the trans to block out those gears anymore...reverse block out still works though as reverse is on a different pigtail.