I did. Difficulty is a 9/10
If you do it yourself look to spend about $400-$700 in materials.
At my shop I would charge anywhere from $600-$2200 for labor depending on how high the truck is and if the gas tank is in the way. 4 link in the rear is useless as these trucks flex pretty good in the rear. The front you need at least long arms to get decent flex.

 

I'm looking more at stability and traction. Mine has a skyjacker soft ride 4.5" system and the rear is lifted with these overly soft leaf springs plus the 3in factory block that make it almost useless for towing and creates horrible axel hop in sand and heavy snow. Just to tell you how soft it is just setting an unloaded 25' trailer on it puts it on the overload, any more and the rear end sinks. In fact the truck sits with about a factory rake to it and once I have the trailer and a few atvs on board my rear is lower that the front. I think a 4 link with over load air bags would be ideal. This is something I may attempt later in the year, we'll see. Either that or save up and have someone else do it but I have another project to do on the truck first.

 

Just make sure you get the measurements right on the upper triangular arms, if not the axle will go bye bye . I would think you would be better installing airbags on the suspension you have now with Daystar cradles. For wheel hop add some stabilizer bars (aka traction bars)

 

I would be tempted to just put the airbags in, and leave the rest. Cushy ride when you want it, additional support when you need it.

 

My only concern is that doesn't solve my axel wrap issue just the sagging under load. How many people go wheeling with traction bars and are there any good designs that don't kill flex and ride comfort? Also would a shackle flip that eliminates the block work instead of a traction bars? I'm kinda new to all this.

 

Would a Caltrac style bar work?

 

A shackle flip would at least eliminate the lift block. Should improve ride when would help with axle hop. Axle hop happens for two reasons. Stiff suspension or to far away from the axle.
A company makes a reaction bar kit where you weld brackets to the axle and frame. Basically a long arm kit for the rear. Just one bar per side. Shouldn't hurt flex. Search for Cummins traction bars. Something like the following. Stay away from heim joints. They usually suck on road and don't last to long because of dirt and salt getting in them.

 

I'm unsure if that would provide enough.

 

Shackle flip, and eliminating the lift blocks would most certainly help with axle hop. Not sure how effective those bars would be..... I am sure they would help some.... but, how much?? And would they really be required if the blocks were gone.....

 

Building a suspension is trial and error. Usually axle hop the bottom of the axle rolls towards the front of the vehicle. That's what these bars stop. They will eliminate 98% of axle hop