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i think you should line the rotor up with number 1 terminal on the distributor cap. should allow it to fire up when you try to start it. then you can set the fuel sync.
Should be a notch in the manifold, notch in the distributor, line those all up with the rotor, and should be close enough to run decent. Fine tune with a scanner later.
there isnt a notch in the intake manifold. not on the kegger, or the m1. ill just leave the rotor where it is, and line up the dizzy with the rotor. i have the snapon scanner, so ill fix it when i get everything installed.
there isnt a notch in the intake manifold. not on the kegger, or the m1. ill just leave the rotor where it is, and line up the dizzy with the rotor. i have the snapon scanner, so ill fix it when i get everything installed.
I saw that cam as well but its rather pricey and doesnt come with lifters. Summit list it for $340.
well, youre going to need a hydraulic roller cam. the one i told you about is the perfect cam for a 360. you can get mopar performance pushrods and lifter for around 150~ and the 1.7's are about 350. its an expensive upgrade, but well worth it! i cant wait to put my new motor in, and get it running!
well, got the motor 90% finished up today! just gotta get some small stuff. new crank sensor, oil psi switch, water pump stud kit(somehow lost one of the long bolts), coil, and a thermostat, and gasket.
heres some pics.
also, any recommendations on thread sealant? need to put some on the threads for the oil psi switch, and adapter, also for water jacket plugs for the m1. thanks!
what year is the engine again? did you replace the injector? only reason i ask is cause those injectors look like they might use different injector plugs than your 2001 might currently have hooked up to the injectors.
what year is the engine again? did you replace the injector? only reason i ask is cause those injectors look like they might use different injector plugs than your 2001 might currently have hooked up to the injectors.