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redneck_rams 360 build thread

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Old Feb 28, 2013 | 10:04 PM
  #211  
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Originally Posted by stewie01
It looks great in the pics. If anything you could paint the valve covers
i think i might, along with my air cleaner. though ill have to bead blast my air cleaner cause its a little corroded.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2013 | 11:17 PM
  #212  
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Originally Posted by redneck_ram
merc, there is an L-shaped block like "attachment" for the m1, what is it, and where does it go(item circled in red)?

That goes under the pass side to support the alt and one of the fuel rail bolts. Step 18 on the install sheets. Funny though I did not use mine at all, that part is in my tool box.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2013 | 11:20 PM
  #213  
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Also no matter what keep those ugly heat shields in place they protect the motor mounts from heat causing the rubber to break down.

Also it looks great, nice work!
 
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Old Feb 28, 2013 | 11:22 PM
  #214  
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Originally Posted by QuadCabLuv
So im looking at this cam set to go with my EQ heads and M1. Do yall think this is a good match? I want to keep my low end power.

Summit Racing Part Number: CCA-CL20-309-4


UPC: 036584071730
Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,800-5,800
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 222
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 226
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 222 int./226 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 268
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 276
Advertised Duration: 268 int./276 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.464 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.464 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.464 int./0.464 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110
Grind Number: 268AH-10
Computer-Controlled Compatible: No
Lifters Included: Yes
Lifter Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
Did you notice that its a flat tappet cam? Go with what redneck_ram suggested.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 10:05 AM
  #215  
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Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,800-5,800

Nope. Not a low end cam. You won't like it.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 10:47 AM
  #216  
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Beautiful!
 
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 11:13 AM
  #217  
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Looks great! Lots of envy here!

A little degreaser spray crap would do it just fine. Besides....it's a MAGNUM, not a Hemeeeeee!!

Looks really damn slick. Probably no chance to start it up on the stand right? You know like on Hot Rod TV (Powerblock)? Would be nice to work out kinks.


Edit - Oh upon install of the engine, will the TB have to come off just as a good idea thing for clearance? Curious is all as I frowned upon myself pulling in/out mine.


Originally Posted by redneck_ram







yes, i replaced the o-rings on the injectors!

merc, there is an L-shaped block like "attachment" for the m1, what is it, and where does it go(item circled in red)?

 
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 01:53 PM
  #218  
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Lookin good man! Do you have any plans for gears? Or are you going to wait until you do the axle swap?
 
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 02:10 PM
  #219  
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Originally Posted by dlyter09
Lookin good man! Do you have any plans for gears? Or are you going to wait until you do the axle swap?
i gotta save up for a stronger converter. i may step up to 4.10's when/if i do the axle swap. still trying to find a d60 rear. dont want the d70 anymore.

anyone know where i can get a better converter aside from patc?
 
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 03:34 PM
  #220  
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so, went and put the dizzy in today, and this is what it looks like...

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should i just turn the dizzy body to line the pick-up with the rotor? hoping thats what can be done, other wise something is wrong. motor is at #1 tdc still. seems strange to me...
 
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