Ya, if you look at the first page of this thread, I show exactly how I cut my center divider out, and that is actually a pretty easy job. The method just described ^^^ would make quick work of it for sure.

 

Alright, I better go buy a bunch of those little cut-off wheels. I guess since I've come this far, might as well go all the way. Thanks.

 

You don't need the cut-off wheels. Like I said, go to page 1 and read step 7. I tried the cutoff wheels, and it basically didn't work very good at all. So I used a sawzall, hammer, and vicegrips and got most of it out of there in just a few minutes.

 

If you try the cutoff wheels, go for the fiber reinforced fellers, that are like an inch or so in diameter. Anything bigger won't fit in some areas, and the generic "heavy duty" discs will shatter in short order.

 

Thanks for all the good tips. I wish I had a sawzall, so I will just have to use what I got. But maybe this would be a real good excuse to buy one. My wife is yelling at me now for all that I already bought.https://dodgeforum.com/forum/images/icons/icon10.gif

 

I have a friend working on this mod for me. I was surprised to find out my 1998 has a center divider in the intake. ?!?!?!

He said he was going to trim the runners about 1" to be more on the safe side and remove the center divider for the mod and not allow too much air but it will open it up more than what it was. You guys who have done or know a lot about this agree?

 

The center divide was removed beginning in the '98 model up. An inch to an inch and a half will be good. The big debate is, should they be cut straight or at an angle.

 

alright, well, i'm by no means an engine builder, but if y'all have 2 options: cutting the runners straight toward the intake wall, approx 1inch below the stock runner height, and cutting the runners straight toward the inner edge of the gasket mating surface meeting the 1 inch lower position, why not a combo of the 2?? OFC dyno testing, probably the only true way to test it, but what if you were to start out cutting the runners straight toward the wall and curved it up to the inner edge of the gasket surface. Like, in an arch. Best of both worlds no??

Edit: Ofc, this would require extra work, but if noone's stuck them both on the dyno to find out which is the best/ proper method, you could cut the runners with the second method....going straight from the inner edge of the gasket mating surface to the markings 1 - 1 1/2 inches below the stock runner height. Then make your arch with a dremel, grinding the sides of the runners down, so that it arches its way to the new runner height.

 

Thanks j415 -

i need to find someone who can run my vin to get all the specs (production date, etc).

I pick up my baby tomorrow! Kegger mod, hughes plenum fix, tune up kit, new water pump, timing set, e fan conversion, new shocks! A new - old truck!

 

http://www.compnine.com/vid.php

there ya go bud. tells you everything it came with from the factory, also a dealer can get you a build sheet as well.