what does aux trans cooler look like? i know for sure i have 2 of the 3 up front

 

On mine, it is between the condenser, and radiator, sorta at an angle. You can't really see all of it, lines just sorta disappear into the nether regions in there......

 

There is no drilling involved. All radiators have a trans fluid heat exchanger. In the winter it gets the fluid to OP temp quicker. In the summer the coolant is supposed to be cooler on that side of the rad and takes heat from the trans fluid. I think that its still too hot. All rads should Have it though. Yours should as well.

 

lol. thats how i feel when i pop the hood and look at my motor with all these lines and cables...

 

The aux cooler looks a bit like the power steering cooler, but a bit larger. If you have a big u shaped bracket that gets wider by the hood latch, it anchors to that. You can just barely see it if you shine a flashlight done there and look for it in the center between the rad and AC condensor.

 

i'll have to check tomorrow. i'll take some pics. is my factory setup fine you think?

 

Running the fluid from rad to aux cooler to trans runs about 10* cooler than factory set.

Only time that might be a big problem is a cold winter snap.

 

so whats the benefit of deleting this check valve

 

I have the same shifting problems. Replaced solenoids twice and the problem returns in 1000 miles. What did you do to correct this issue?

 

I'll probably get chided for opening an old post, but I wanted to mention an alternative to the tranny check valve delete that I've worked on over the last few days.

It costs roughly $26 for all the parts at Napa.

(1) Crimp-able Quick-Disconnect Transmission Line Connector (Dodge), Napa P/N: BK 730-4983

(1) Crimp-able Hose End, 3/8" SAE Female Flare, Napa P/N: WH 06U-406

(1) Section of Napa Hydraulic Hose, 8", Napa P/N: WH H24506

(1) 3/8" SAE Male-Male Flare Fitting, Napa P/N: WH 42 X 6


The folks at my local Napa are yahoos, so I didn't trust them crimping the hose ends on there, even though they offer to make hydraulic hoses for you. We have a hydraulic hose crimper at work that worked nicely. The Quick-Disconnect fitting (P/N BK 730-4983) was extremely tight when I pushed it on the hydraulic hose, even before it was crimped down.

Please see the attached photo in the Photobucket link below. I thought it made a neat job of the check-valve delete.

Previously, I had tried to simply cut the check valve off the OEM hose and crimped on the Female 3/8" Flare Hose End (the second P/N listed). This did not work as it leaked transmission fluid from around the edge of the crimp; I think the OEM hose is too flimsy since it is not steel-reinforced. Obviously the double-braided hydraulic hose I used is way-overkill for the pressures this system will see, so perhaps a single-braid hydraulic hose would work as well for this mod.

Anyway, hope this may help someone if you're looking for an alternative to the original mod.

Thanks!
Dave


http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/...e6-30-2011.jpg


*EDIT* For reference, the info for the Quick Disconnect Tool used to release the transmission lines at the radiator: Advance Auto, P/N AC522, Price: $8