Ok, so this isn't something I have to replace asap? I will do the loosening on the radiator.

As for the plenum gasket; what do you guys think? Do I do this while I'm getting the big tax return. Or do I not fix what isn't broken?

 

Why wont the PP3's work on this truck? I have one on mine. Or were you just saying you had one for a different truck?

 

Up to you. I'm not sure if mine was bad or not but I replaced it with a APS kit anyway so if I don't have to worry about it. I kind of thought it might be bad but it was not a pool of oil so I don't know. Didn't run much if any better afterwards so I'm thinking mine might not have been bad idk.

 

Hmm...I kind of feel like I may as well wait on the plenum job then. The truck runs fine at the moment; perhaps by the time it goes, I'll be able to perform the job myself. Hometheaterman; how much did you pay for your APS kit + Installation on the plenum kit job?

However, the leaking freeze plugs are a little bothersome. I feel a little wrong buying rims for my truck when I have coolant dripping. I know that dhvaughan suggested loosening the radiator cap to relieve some pressure on the system; but is this a temporary fix? Is there anything wrong with driving around with bad/leaky freeze plugs? Thank You.

 

I payed like $660 or something around there for the install of the pleneum kit. I had some bolts that had rusted through so had been cut in half by rust that they had to get out. I'm glad I did it because of that however, power wise I couldn't tell a difference. This was for the shop I worked for for right over a year.

I forgot what the APS kit costs. I will have to look it up. By the time you got the bolts and kit and all that is needed from Hughes it was about the same price. The Hughes looks cheaper but you have to buy the bolts and all separate. They ended up being about the same price.

Just looked it up looks like it's $158 shipped from APS. For the kit with the bolts and all.

If I had to do it again I might try it myself but then again it looks to be a huge pita. I also ordered new orings for the injectors and all to supply to the shop so the $660 was just basically labor.

 

For $800+, I guess I'd rather wait to do it when it needs it. The truck shows no sign of power issues, pinging, or unusual oil consumption. I will just remain mindful of the plenum gasket in the meantime. I guess I'm still waiting on some feedback in regards to the leaky freeze plugs. I'm going to loosen the radiator cap, but wanted to know if it's harmful driving the truck with leaky freeze plugs. If it is, I'm not really comfortable putting a band-aid on the truck and would rather just spend some of my tax return money on having it fixed. But, if it's not really a big deal, I will just loosen the cap, and continue to keep an eye on coolant levels.

 

Please explain. I think I know what you mean but I haven't heard of anyone doing this before.

 

I would pin point the leak and fix it asap. Granted, you've been running the truck for months and just keeping the tank full, but you really should fix it before it gets worse and leads to a lot bigger problem.

 

Corrosion (rust) is an electro-chemical process. Your engine is like a big battery using coolant as the electrolyte. The iron in your engine block is normally the anode. By hanging a piece of more active metal (zinc) in the radiator tank, it slowly sacrifices itself to the corrosive process protecting your engine block by turning the block into the cathode. Only after the anode is completely dissolved is the block itself attacked. Of course, you would just replace the anode once this happened.

 

here's an example, but i don't think it'll fit our trucks, and our plastic end caps are not grounded.
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/anode.html

I'm thinking that something like this might fit in the block drain plugs, which hide behind the engine mounts. i don't know if 3/8 is the right size or not, but maybe. we need someone that's draining their coolant to check it out.
http://shop.torresen.com/ships_store...ectionid=Zincs