The kit I bought cost me alot more than that but it was a complete kit to do domestic and foreign vehicles. I would spend the extra couple of bucks to get the right cap to do it right and end your problems with bleeding.

 

Can't really say about your brand because I made mine out of a 1 gal pump sprayer, a nipple, and a spare cap. About $15 cost. Mine didn't seal that great, but worked fine to get the air out of the master and lines.

 

...of course when i say i think it's the master cylinder...i am assuming you have no leaks in system...as in resevor level staying the same...

...if you deside to re-bench bleed in a vise...while waiting on your pressure bleeder cap/lid...i might mention to go full strokes with it...not short ones...full in and full return...

...good luck with it...

...redzone...

 

...so how did it come out?...did ya get her going?...thanks in advance...redzone....

 

Red, I tried your method, and still no luck...I am going to try a vacuum bleeder tomorrow..I will post how I made out

 

Vacuum bled today...Still have air..I bled the all four wheels, and still have air...Then I started the process of elimination...I bled the proportion valve from the front resevior and had no air..Then I bled the line going down to the drivers side hose, and stilll no air..I then went to the passengers side and removed the hard line from the brake hose, and bled there, and I had air..I then when back the the driver side, and put a fitting in the passengers side port of the the brake hose and bled it again and it had air..Its hard to believe that the drivers side brake hose is bad again, it will be the 3rd one on the truck...I went to the rear and disconnected the rear passengers side line and vacuum bled from there, and I had air..

 

Man this must be frustrating for ya. You could seal the pressure bleeder better by putting a couple of c-clamps on it, there by sealing it down on the top. Once the air is out of the master the pressure bleed is only good for keeping the reservoir full. I've done this to my truck as well, but used cunifer lines that I bent up and flared. I can't tell if your doing it but it was important to use a clear tube submerged in a jar of brake fluid while bleeding, that way you don't have to open and close the bleed screw till the air is out. Truck running and assistant pumping the brakes.

 

...wow...i feel for ya...its got to feel like the twilight zone...redzone...

 

My dad had the same problem with his dodge. We replaced the master cylinder and probally bleed the lines for 3 to 4 hours and the pedal stayed mushy. So i called a friend of mine who worked at a shop and he said that theres something about the way that abs control is setup that when you empty all the fluid it takes some special tool or something. not sure just what i was told. so we just bypassed the abs and problem fixed.

 

97tn4x4 is right. I apologize for being misleading if I was. i recently found a post somewhere. I don't remember where it is now but I will try to find it for you again. It says that you need a special tool to keep the valve centered on both the abs and "prop" valve otherwise it won't bleed correctly. Let me see if I can find it quick for you.