Well I am at a loss here. I would have imagined that when putting pressure on the line that the joint would try to push apart causing a leak and then when pressure was released slip back toward eachother so to speak.

Vinnie if you are trying to use a vacuum bleeder on the the individual brake bleeder and it is holding pressure for that long of a period of time then the line isn't open to the system at either the abs block or the metering block.

 

Check the brake line above the gas tank! LOL

 

The line along the tank is brand new..LOL

 

Just look at a diagram of a fitting on google to see how they fit together, DIN and SAE double inverted. Here's a hint: when you pressurize the line the dome, so to speak expands ie. swells to make a tigher fit, ala no leak. Now a DIN flare is not compatable with the other. I only suspected this because he said he bought the parts aftermarket and they very well could be off, plus he has tried everything else logical.

 

Your right there KY2500. I was apparently misunderstanding what you were trying to convey. I am up to speed with what you mean now. I am having issues with my own truck and apparently my brain isn't working at full tilt. I thought you were saying that maybe his fittins weren't tight and causing the air leak but you were refering to incorrect flaring on the ends. My mistake. Sorry about that. I don't know about you but I am at a loss at this point. the only things left that could be wrong at this point is that either like you said the flares are incorrect or the tools you have to have to hold open the valves are needed. I talked to a buddy of mine from a Dodge dealer who said that If you have replaced the master cylinder and air has been allowed to enter the abs and metering valves you have to use "brake valve" tools which look like little clips to hold the valve centered so that you can bleed the air out of the system. I would go over each and every new flare or fitting that you have introduced into the system and then get the correct tools(which are like ten bucks from the dealer) and then bleed the system thoroughly again and you will be amazed. You also need to have the key in the run position but don't have to have the truck running so that the abs system can cycle to help bleed out the air while bleeding the system. Hope some of this helps.

 

Well I just got my truck back from a garage down the street...What he claims is that the vacuum pump is weak, not producing enough vacuum for the booster...And he claims thats why the pedal is fading while the truck is running...Any feedback before I drop another 400.00 on a vacuum pump

 

Who ever showed you how to bleed brakes lied to you, If you keep on pumping like that you will suck air back in, and you also aint really moving that much fluid because every time you release with the tbe in the jar ally ou are doing is sucking the fluid back in that you just squirted out.

The correct way you do it is have you friend pump a certain amount of times I always pump 3 time hold the pedal while other dude craks the screw and I would hold the pedal to the floor untill the the bleed screw is tight again.

You can buy some speed bleeders to replace your stock bleeder screws and you can do this yourself, I got them for my Jeep as I have a leak in the system that only shows its face after it has sat for awhile and they work wonders.

 

Dude? Did you ever post any info in this thread about your truck? I don't know if it would have helped or not, but you need to do it. Does any 94 and up gassers have a vacuum pump, (I could be wrong but don't think so). So it must be a diesel, and there is a diesel section here that have people that might not read this section.

 

You can do it that way if you submerge the hose in fluid. Doesn't matter if fluid goes back in the hose.

 

I thought the same thing as you Zman. He has to have a diesel. There are no vacuum pumps on gas setups. If in fact his truck is a diesel then yes the vacuum pump could be weak but I am not too familiar with how the cummins is setup.