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check valves for wild vents

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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 03:28 PM
  #111  
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Smile yeah best site ive found

Ive had this 96 ram since new and its never failed me, I just picked up another 05 reg cab 4x4 with 34000 miles the other day for 11 grand, hope she treats me as well. I know this site has helped me a ton on troubleshooting minor probs. My next adventure is pulling the dash on the 96 and changing the heater core.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 11:40 PM
  #112  
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Great thread I had the wacky vents start up on me about a week ago whenever I would hit the on-ramps to the fwy's here in California. Then as of 2 days ago it started doing it even on the street just pulling away from stoplights.

Ran a search and found this thread I decided to try Sheriff420's suggestion on post #49 and plug the check valve elbow that splits off to the CC servo, worked like magic i don't use my CC here in the city anyway,

so I guess my CC servo or the line that runs to it is bad, since I do have a battery leak problem.......For some reason don't know if its just in my head but it seems to run a little better/stonger??

Anyway Thanks to the O.P. and all who contributed.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 09:24 AM
  #113  
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great post, thanks for the information.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2010 | 10:42 AM
  #114  
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Replaced the two faulty check valves and BAM! No problems now. Thanks To Everyone Here On DF! Keep up the free info trade.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 01:48 PM
  #115  
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I went and changed out the pvc and the cv on the manifold and it does work better. at least now air does move out of the defrost vents and i can hear the vents opening and shutting. but in this post there is mention of another cv somewhere nearer to the firewall. I havent been able to find it and was hoping someone could point me in the right direction. 5.2 motor in case that makes a difference.

all the time air blows out of the floor heat which i thought when the defrosters are on, not much would come out.

thanks again for all the information.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 03:59 PM
  #116  
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The heater control switch,cable or blend door is broke. My guess would be blend door. On a 95 it is controlled by the cable from the switch. The door has a tab that breaks where the cable connects,that is a common problem.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 07:05 PM
  #117  
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Zman, thanks for the quick reply. does the blend door breaking = pulling the whole system out to replace? that is my guess anyway.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 08:14 AM
  #118  
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To put an OEM door in yes, you have to pull the box out. But some where on this site , there is an aftermarket fix that has worked for some. damned if I can find it though. Here it is https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-door-fix.html Unfortunately, I think that fix is for the newer style that uses an electric motor, rather than the cable.
 

Last edited by zman17; Oct 3, 2010 at 08:32 AM.
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 02:50 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by truegent81
didn't know what this was called, but i figured it does something with the vent. it is connected to the max av switch. what is this silver cannister? thanks

took off my glovebox to see how much of the HVAC i could see..what is that?
The blend door on my truck swings from hot to cold all the time. Is this where I should be looking to find a vaccum leak or should I try the T check valve on the other side of the firewall first? The vaccum to my cruise control cannister under the battery seems to be OK as my cruise works fine so am thinking the check valve just off the intake manifold should be OK. Does this sound right? BTW sherriff.....I hope you never change your avitar pic.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 03:01 PM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by zman17
The heater control switch,cable or blend door is broke. My guess would be blend door. On a 95 it is controlled by the cable from the switch. The door has a tab that breaks where the cable connects,that is a common problem.
Not to correct you but my 95 control switch is vacuum operated. There is a vacuum line that runs through the firewall near the A/C line. That is the vacuum supply for the switch. It should be black and run directly to the switch panel. use a vaccum gauge to see if you may have a leak there to the engine compartment. Hope this helps
 
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