MonteC's Transmission Corner (For Info Only)
Thanks for the help thus far Monte. I am about to order the required parts for the rebuild. I have cleaned and installed the sure cure kit. I have a few questions after doing my research and reading others comments.
1. Have read a few people using a rigid front band rather than the flex band for durability. Do you recommend the use of a rigid front band instead of a flex? Does the rigid increase durability?
2. When adding additional clutches above the stock number and using thinner pressure plates, do you still use the same clearence specifications as stated in the FSM?
3. Have read statements which people qouted PACT and Suncoast indicating that a standard of .010 per clutch or steel should be used for clearences? Do you have your rule of thumb?
4. Best to go with single sided or dual clutches?
5. Would a transgo reprogramming kit or shift kit provide any additional benifit since I have installed the sure cure. Have read conflicting statments to not use them together / to use them together.?
6. Alluminum accumalator servo not withstanding, Is it worth the extra expense to use the more expensive oversized servos from sonnax and others...does the increased expense make up for durabilty with these items...such as the ones listed on the PACT site...although I see they do not use these in thier upgraded transmissions that they sell?
7. Lastly....what stall speed TQ would you recommend for daily driver/offroad/towing....a little lost on which to choose?
Thanks again for your guidance!
1. Have read a few people using a rigid front band rather than the flex band for durability. Do you recommend the use of a rigid front band instead of a flex? Does the rigid increase durability?
2. When adding additional clutches above the stock number and using thinner pressure plates, do you still use the same clearence specifications as stated in the FSM?
3. Have read statements which people qouted PACT and Suncoast indicating that a standard of .010 per clutch or steel should be used for clearences? Do you have your rule of thumb?
4. Best to go with single sided or dual clutches?
5. Would a transgo reprogramming kit or shift kit provide any additional benifit since I have installed the sure cure. Have read conflicting statments to not use them together / to use them together.?
6. Alluminum accumalator servo not withstanding, Is it worth the extra expense to use the more expensive oversized servos from sonnax and others...does the increased expense make up for durabilty with these items...such as the ones listed on the PACT site...although I see they do not use these in thier upgraded transmissions that they sell?
7. Lastly....what stall speed TQ would you recommend for daily driver/offroad/towing....a little lost on which to choose?
Thanks again for your guidance!
2/3. Depends. I use the recommended clutch clearances as a guide. Some clutches i like to run tight, some i like to run loose. When in doubt, if your adding more clutches use that rule of thumb, but i would go with .08 per clutch. Or take the oe clutch spec and divde by the number of clutches that are present. If a clutch pack calls for .40 and it has 4 clutch disk then that would be .10 per clutch, so if you add a 5th clutch then .50 would be a good clearance
4. dual sided.
5. You would have to read each kit. They may over lap or interfere with each other. You can install them together but you have to know what you can and cant do.
6. Honestly, no. Stick with the oe style aluminum for non race trucks.
7. A low stall converter would be best. Talk with Precision of New Hampton in Iowa. They make a great RV converter for the 46re.
After thinking about the issue a little, I started to wonder about why the van would stall or almost stall when coming to a stop. Could the Torque Converter Clutch Lockup Mechanism be engaged by a faulty valve body when it should be released? If so, could that be the cause of the van stalling when coming to a stop? Could that also be the reason behind the transmission engaging 3rd gear when placed into drive instead of the normal 1st, 2nd, third? Is the valvebody the likely culprit or is something else responsible for this to occur? Thanks in advance for the feedback.
I know this is a question that's been asked before, but can anyone steer me to some info on my tranny not wanting to shift out of 2nd when at operating temp?
Was told that the solenoids are going out but I'm freaking cuase I'm moving next week and really can't have the truck go belly up on me. Thanks guys and gals.
Was told that the solenoids are going out but I'm freaking cuase I'm moving next week and really can't have the truck go belly up on me. Thanks guys and gals.
Very well could be the governor solenoids. You can see them on the data stream of a scan tool.
Hi ive got a 95 318 auto and the reverse gear works but isnt great. I can hold the brakes while in reverse and give it gas and it wont move. It Barely pulls itself. However the forward gears seem fine. Any ideas on what to check or a new trans. Thank you for all of your help.
I bought a 1997 Dodge 1500 4x4 5.9ltr from a guy last weekend. Test drove for about 5 minutes and it drove fine other than vibration when shifted to overdrive. Knucklehead said this was the driveshaft probably got warped and he did tell me that he had to put the vacuum lines back on transmission because they came loose.
I bought the truck anyway and drove about 20 miles on the interstate and it lost drive power. Motor still running fine but would not move. I tried reverse and all forward gears, 4 wheel drive and 2 wheel drive but it wouldnt move. With the truck sitting still it would whine or kinda grind sound come from right behind the engine under the floor when I would shift from a gear back to park.I called the knucklehead I bought the truck from and described the problem and he said thats your problem and hung up.I had the truck towed to a friend who is a mechanic on 18 wheel diesel trucks. He started the truck yesterday and said it drove fine other than the vibration when shifts to overdrive. What could the problem be and does the vibration have anything to do with why the truck lost drive power? This is for my 16 yr old son and it was his money that bought the truck so I really need a solution. I am in the dog house with the wife over this.
Thanks for your help,
Keven
I bought the truck anyway and drove about 20 miles on the interstate and it lost drive power. Motor still running fine but would not move. I tried reverse and all forward gears, 4 wheel drive and 2 wheel drive but it wouldnt move. With the truck sitting still it would whine or kinda grind sound come from right behind the engine under the floor when I would shift from a gear back to park.I called the knucklehead I bought the truck from and described the problem and he said thats your problem and hung up.I had the truck towed to a friend who is a mechanic on 18 wheel diesel trucks. He started the truck yesterday and said it drove fine other than the vibration when shifts to overdrive. What could the problem be and does the vibration have anything to do with why the truck lost drive power? This is for my 16 yr old son and it was his money that bought the truck so I really need a solution. I am in the dog house with the wife over this.
Thanks for your help,
Keven
I am pulling my hair out trying to find the answer to this question: What is the fluid capacity of an empty transmission? I have found multiple answers from 7 quarts (from the yahoo's at the local parts store; I know that's not enough) to 5 gallons. I just finished rebuilding my transmission and need to know how much fluid to buy.
Thanks.
Dave in L.A.
Thanks.
Dave in L.A.
I bought a 1997 Dodge 1500 4x4 5.9ltr from a guy last weekend. Test drove for about 5 minutes and it drove fine other than vibration when shifted to overdrive. Knucklehead said this was the driveshaft probably got warped and he did tell me that he had to put the vacuum lines back on transmission because they came loose.
I bought the truck anyway and drove about 20 miles on the interstate and it lost drive power. Motor still running fine but would not move. I tried reverse and all forward gears, 4 wheel drive and 2 wheel drive but it wouldnt move. With the truck sitting still it would whine or kinda grind sound come from right behind the engine under the floor when I would shift from a gear back to park.I called the knucklehead I bought the truck from and described the problem and he said thats your problem and hung up.I had the truck towed to a friend who is a mechanic on 18 wheel diesel trucks. He started the truck yesterday and said it drove fine other than the vibration when shifts to overdrive. What could the problem be and does the vibration have anything to do with why the truck lost drive power? This is for my 16 yr old son and it was his money that bought the truck so I really need a solution. I am in the dog house with the wife over this.
Thanks for your help,
Keven
I bought the truck anyway and drove about 20 miles on the interstate and it lost drive power. Motor still running fine but would not move. I tried reverse and all forward gears, 4 wheel drive and 2 wheel drive but it wouldnt move. With the truck sitting still it would whine or kinda grind sound come from right behind the engine under the floor when I would shift from a gear back to park.I called the knucklehead I bought the truck from and described the problem and he said thats your problem and hung up.I had the truck towed to a friend who is a mechanic on 18 wheel diesel trucks. He started the truck yesterday and said it drove fine other than the vibration when shifts to overdrive. What could the problem be and does the vibration have anything to do with why the truck lost drive power? This is for my 16 yr old son and it was his money that bought the truck so I really need a solution. I am in the dog house with the wife over this.
Thanks for your help,
Keven
I would start with the basics. This is an unknown truck. You need to see what kind of condition the transmission is in. Only way to do that is to drop the pan.
Also, if you hear a grinding noise when you go from a drive gear to park it sounds like the out put shaft is turning, but no power is being transferred. The noise could be the parking paul being ratcheted rapidly until the parking lugs slow down enough to en gauge. I would also drain the T case and check the fluid. You might find you have a band t case.
I am pulling my hair out trying to find the answer to this question: What is the fluid capacity of an empty transmission? I have found multiple answers from 7 quarts (from the yahoo's at the local parts store; I know that's not enough) to 5 gallons. I just finished rebuilding my transmission and need to know how much fluid to buy.
Thanks.
Dave in L.A.
Thanks.
Dave in L.A.
"Note: The best way to determine the amount of fluid to add during a routine fluid change is to measure the amount drained. It is important not to overfill the transmission. After draining the transmission, begin the refilling procedure by initially adding 1 1/2 quarts, then adding 1/2-pint at a time until the level is correct on the dipstick."
That, "Note", by the way is for when you just drain the tranny pan and replace the filter. So, if the tranny is completely dry, you should be adding fluid little by little after putting at least 9 quarts into the system. Be sure to check the proper fluid level as you add while the engine is running in the neutral position with parking brake applied and while the truck is on a level surface, if not, your dipstick won't read accurately.



