well i've also heard anti-seize now that i think about it.

what are these gaskets in this pic? i know one is timing cover gasket, water pump gasket, but the others im lost on.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=447477

 

what would the seal be named under in rock auto? all i can find is the rear main seal...

 

Two different styles of water pump gasket, you may or may not need both. (Don't know if there is a plate or something that goes between the pump, and the cover.) Front main seal, (and probably the spring that goes in it?) and some RTV sealant.

Comes in the kit above.

 

well i guess i will get that set then. i need a water pump gasket and a front main seal. unless i can find the front main seal by itself.

hey 95ram where can you find the main seal on rock auto?

 

front seal will be included in a timing gasket kit.

i used cloyes C-3072. its a standard single chain with normal timing. its all you really need, but some people go with a double roller. unless you've thought a lot about what you're doing, i would not go with a 4* advance or retard.

here's all the crap that i replaced. i did not remove my injectors from the rail...
i recommend a quality t-stat - Stant Super-stat.
i recommend a new water pump rather than rebuilt.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1037183-post15.html

 

what water pump would you get from rock auto DV? yeah i dont want a rebuilt one either. what are the 2 molded heater hoses from? i know the bypass hose, but where is the location for those two?

i just want a OEM type timing chain. i want to keep everything the same. i dont want to mess with the advance or retard.

c 3072
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=417059

dv is this the one you put on?

 

yes, that's the chain i used. its the standard replacement part, available at all local parts stores.

there are 2 heater hoses, each is about 3/4" ID and 1+ OD. there is one on drivers side and one on passenger side. they circulate coolant through the heater core, which is located on passenger side firewall. mine were looking a little dry rotted so i replaced them. "molded" means there is a 45* or 90* bend molded in, as opposed to straight - off the roll - standard hose, which is dirt cheap and sold by the foot. you can use straight hose to make the 45* on the drivers side water pump bend, but you cannot make those two 90* bends, as the straight hose will kink. i just took my old hoses up to the parts store, and asked them to find me a replacement for "these". the guy is pretty creative and found 2 hoses that we cut and spliced to make the proper bends. i just put in coupler pipes in the splices and used hose clamps, which is fine. i don't know what the proper hoses would have cost at the dealership, maybe more, maybe less but i doubt it. my local dealership never has anything in stock and has to order everything, so i seldom even go there unless i just cant come up with it any other way.

looking at water pump, stand by.
from rockauto - i'd probably pick the Cardone Select, new, private label for $44.79. or - i'd get a lifetime warranty autozone/duralast (new) for $66. i like their lifetime warranty... if you keep vehicles for a long time like i do, it pays off.

 

thanks DV. a lifetime warranty sounds pretty good to me so i think i am gonna double check my rock auto shopping cart and then order tonight. tomorrow i will go and get the water pump from auto zone. i am a little apprehensive about it being duralast but the lifetime warranty will be good when it goes out.

 

ive been told not to use the blue threadlocker. what did you use it for?

is a timing cover sleeve necessary? DV i know you said the front main seal is included in the timing cover gasket set. i just didnt know if i needed the set from rock auto with the cover sleeve or not.

this has no cover sleeve
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=446658

this does
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=447477

BTW is that the front seal under the timing cover gasket?

 

USE BLUE THREADLOCKER FOR THE PLENUM BOLTS ON THE INTAKE.

I am not shouting, I am just making a bold statement.

I got mixed up with that. And by "intake" people mean the 15 bolts boilding the plenum plate to the bottom of the intake.

Don't use threadlocker for the intake bolts BUT DO THIS:

take 4 of the old intake bolts and hacksaw the tops off them. I used a cutting wheel, but use a pair of vise grips to hold them. i used my hands and one went flying off into the sunset when i lost my grip. i didn't even hear it land. Good thing I was facing the woods.

reason being is because it will ensure that you get the intake on there PERFECTLY and you do not shift the gaskets.

I put the intake gaskets on the head side then put the intake down.


ALSO, you must make sure that the front and back gaskets (the black strips that are rubber coated steel) lay flat. So BEFORE you lay down untra black to that spot, ensure they lay flat. There are 2 little tabs that go into two little holes. One of my holes was full of black RTV from when the engine was manufactured. So I had to get in there with a tiny drill bit and work it out. Sucked because i already slathered a healthy load of RTV.

That is where you don't want to be shy with the RTV. On the front and back gaskets.

--Dan