BTW~ Once you've figured out how to disengage the alarm and you've done it..Give us an update..If that don't fix the problem , Send me $50.00 for S/H , and I'll send you the cable and a PDC that I know works..If it fixes the issues send another $100.00,When you can~ IF it don't and you only need the cable..Keep it and we'll keep the PDC on this sight for the next person that needs it , someone Like Rapid~ when he does his swap..

 

george how is you truck running? any quirks or gremlin's pop up?

 

My 02 sensors , don't act right SOMETIMES"~when it's cold causing it to skip a little about every other cold start morning. Other than that , Every Day Driver , 2000+ Miles since heart transplant , after warm up it runs and Idles like a new truck..I wish it was a SLT so I could roll the windows up or lock the doors without having to walk around it..
It gets 14~15 mpg City , and about 18~19 hwy. since I put a new K&N air filter in. I have not noticed a drop of any kind underneath .. It runs cool , with great oil pressure , and I'm going to pay for bragging.. Every time I brag on something I have ~ something Bad happens , so I'm going to stop now before it gets un~fixable. "I Love my truck"..
Do you have any idea when you might be going home ?

 

"hold you're right hand over your head and punch yourself in the nuts while making animal sounds..~ it's Something like that..If that don't work ,"look it up"..
Then grab an Ice pack .."


that was the funniest thing I've read in a while, lol lol.
yes manually disengaging alarms is a PITA.

 

So I have been doing some searching. This is what I have come up with. Since I used the dash from the Hemi I need to buy an aftermarket alarm in order to be able to disarm my security. Apparently there are all sorts of resistors and what not that the alarm needs to pass through in order to disarm/arm it. I must have inadvertently armed the alarm while trying to start the truck prior to locking up the computer. ( Hence the flashing lights and the red blinking light on my Dash.

I also found this info for interior wiring that may help someone else doing the swap in the future.

For a 2003 Dodge Ram

| 12V|pnk/blk & red/wht |+ |ignition harness |
| STARTER|yellow |+ |ignition harness |
| IGNITION|blue (16 awg) |+ |ignition harness |
| SECOND IGNITION|red or red/wht |+ |ignition harness |
| ACCESSORY|green & orange |+ |ignition harness |
| SECOND ACCESSORY|blue & blk/wht *7 |+ |ignition harness |
| POWER LOCK|white/green *1 |- |driver kick panel |
| POWER UNLOCK|same wire | | |
| LOCK MOTOR|tan/pnk or tan/blk | |driver kick panel |
| UNLOCK MOTOR|blue | |driver kick panel |
| DISARM DEFEAT|tan/white | |passenger kick panel |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|black/yellow | |relay under hood at pwr ctr |
| PARKING LIGHTS -|purple/yellow *2 | |headlight switch |
| HEADLIGHTS|purple/yellow *2 |- |headlight switch |
| DOOR TRIGGER|*3 |- |*3 |
| DOME SUPERVISION|use door trigger | | |
| FCTRY ALARM ARM|lt green/orange *4 |- |driver kick panel |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|same wire | | |
| DISARM NO UNLOCK|same wire | | |
| TACHOMETER|NOT green/orange | |ign coil, coil pac, injector|
| SPEED SENSE|white/orange | |conn. 2, pin 27 @ PCM *5 |
| BRAKE WIRE|white/tan |+ |brake pedal switch |
| HORN TRIGGER|black/red |- |steering column |
| WIPERS|brn/wht(L),rd/yel(H)|+ |wiper motor |
| LF WINDOW UP/DN|lt blue - white |A |driver window switch |
| RF WINDOW UP/DN|brn/wht - pur/wht |A |driver kick panel |
| LR WINDOW UP/DN|red/blk - blu/wht |A |driver kick panel |
| RR WINDOW UP/DN|grn/wht - gry/blk |A |driver kick panel |
| RADIO 12V|pink |+ |radio |
| RADIO GROUND|black/green |- |radio |
| RADIO SWITCH|brown/red |+ |radio |
| RADIO ILLUMINATE|orange/blue (dimmer)|+ |radio |
| LF SPEAKER|lt grn/rd-lt grn/grn| |radio or amplifier *6 |
| RF SPEAKER|lt blu/pu-lt blu/blk| |radio or amplifier *6 |
| LR SPEAKER|wht/red - wht/blk | |radio or amplifier *6 |
| RR SPEAKER|tan/pur - tan/blk | |radio or amplifier *6 |

Alright, here you listed the factory disarm wire. This can control the locks BUT there is an actual single wire coming off of the lock switch.

DODGE, RAM PICKUP, 2003, Power Lock
Power Lock white/green - driver kick panel
Power Unlock same wire as power lock

Lock requires a negative trigger thru a 820 ohm resistor. Unlock requires a negative trigger thru a 330 ohm resistor. MUST use relays.

Can also use Directed 457C or 456L interface modules.

And this is for a 97 Dodge Ram.


PART COLOR LOCATION
12 VOLT CONSTANT PINK/BLACK (+) and RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER BLUE/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER 2 N/A
IGNITION 1 DARK BLUE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 2 N/A
IGNITION 3 N/A
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 BLACK/ORANGE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2 N/A
KEYSENSE N/A
PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) N/A
PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) BLACK/YELLOW (+) @ YELLOW Plug, in DRIVERS KICK PANEL
POWER LOCK ORANGE/VIOLET (5 Wire Reverse Polarity) See NOTE *1 @ LIGHT BLUE Plug, in DRIVERS KICK PANEL
POWER UNLOCK PINK/VIOLET (5 Wire Reverse Polarity) See NOTE *1 @ LIGHT BLUE Plug in DRIVERS KICK PANEL
DOOR TRIGGER YELLOW (-) @ YELLOW Plug, in DRIVERS KICK PANEL
DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION USE DOOR TRIGGER, Requires #R30-H Relay
TRUNK RELEASE N/A
SLIDING POWER DOOR N/A
HORN BLACK/RED (-) @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
TACH GRAY/BLACK or BLACK/GRAY @ IGNITION COIL
WAIT TO START LIGHT ORANGE/BLACK (-) @ PCM , See NOTE *2
BRAKE WHITE/TAN (+) or WHITE/BROWN (+) @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
FACTORY ALARM DISARM N/A
ANTI-THEFT N/A
EXTRA INFORMATION

NOTE *1 Vehicles WITHOUT a FACTORY KEYLESS are a 5 Wire Reverse Polarity Door Locking System and Vehicles WITH a FACTORY KEYLESS are a Positive (+) Door Locking System. NOTE *2 the DIESEL tach wire is a GRAY/BLACK at the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) located on the PASSENGER side FIREWALL.


So this is where I am at. I need to find a place that will sell me an alarm that will lock and unlock my doors as well as disarm my alarm and hey might as well lget one with remote start while I am at it. Thinking that I am going to have to save my pennies. If anyone has used an aftermarket remote start/ alarm on a gen 3 or 2 that they like for cheap let me know about it.

 

wheres the donor you got everything out of? if you still have access to that i would look for what you need there. you won't be able to just throw any brand of alarm at what you already have. if it is an alarm system problem. you need to find out the brand and model alarm you have existing. look for the module it will show you this information . from there you may be able to go to that manufacturers web sight and come up with the wiring diagram for that alarm. other wise find a perfessional installer and he can tell you what alarm you have. i can't help but think the way you've described this situation though that it is the skim. here is a little reading for you on the subject. http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/...ad.php?t=93169. which steering column did you go with? ok i found it. you used the the donor column. so it don't matter what computer you throw at it. the second you turn on the ignition switch your writing the skim program right back into the computer.

 

Its the factory alarm. The skim was removed from the computer. The transponder was removed prior to the reinstallion of the computer so if it is still the skim I'm going to be ticked. But. I tried the ecm that hemi-dak sent me which is non skim and the alarm is still going off. The steering column is from the hemi as is the dash wiring and the doors are being spliced in to the hemi harness. Which I was wiring doors in when we had the battery hooked up in reverse. I have read of 3 gen trucks that have had this problem the fix is to hit the unlock on the remote. I no longer have the donor and I never had keys. So I read that of I put an aftermarket alarm on with a 480 resistor that that will disengage the factory alarm which is causing the alarm to go off. I was thinking of having a pro installer help with the install.

 

you never had keys....where did you get the key for the ignition. that key. the original key had a chip to accomodate the skim. you can't just have a lock smith make you a key. it has to be aquired from the dealer. http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/...ad.php?t=93169

 

Yeah the Sentry key is not a new problem. I ran into problems with it a while ago. The key for my ignition is the original key from the Gen 2 ram. The locksmith came out broke my cylinder and I had it rekeyed so the key to the truck matched the doors. Sent my computer off and had the Skim removed from its programming and then I removed the transponder ring from the column. No more Skim but the truck still has the basic factory alarm.

 

Would it help if you had a 2003~ non skim dash + steering column wiring harness ? I have one..
Don't the alarm work off the door lock remote control ? you can activate it by turning the key switch on and off three times with the doors locked.. There is a way to de-activate it the same way..I know this because my Dakota has power door locks.. When I first bought the truck , It didn't have a remote..I turned the remote and alarm off by reading the owners manual..It told me how , Then My buddy found the remote and I re~activated it with the key switch and door locks in another combination , The owners manual tells you how to do it..
There's also a way to set any remote control to work on any dodge , set the horn to beep when you lock the doors , Door auto lock, turn off the setting that locks the doors at 15 mph , exc..exc.. There's not much you can't do with them..You can find all this in the owners manual ..If you didn't get an owners manual , let me know..I'll let you know what my Dakota manual says about it , It will probably work on yours the same way...THESE things only work for the SLT.. Plain ole' cheep trucks like mine don't have all that good stuff..