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Hs 1.7 rr

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  #81  
Old 11-02-2011, 10:09 PM
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Yup, pretty much all the same stuff he told me when I bought mine. Great guy to work with. He is super knowledgeable and really knows his stuff. The rockers are as he describes both in quality and in performance. You will like them.
 
  #82  
Old 11-03-2011, 03:12 AM
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well sounds like i need them if i can gain 14-25 hp and a little more mpg....it sounds like a pretty easy job to its all bolt on...
 
  #83  
Old 11-03-2011, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Boomer1275
Put the guide plates back in. Taking them out screws up the geometry. You can remove them but need to either shime the mount or different push rods to make up the difference in height(thickness of guide plate). Get the GP back in,chase/clean out the threads, torque them down to 25 ft-lbs with alittle blue loctite. 21lbs(oem spec) doesnt seem to work well with some motors as it gives a loud valvetrain(ticking).

edit....follow the firing order starting with #1tdc then turn the crank every 90deg and torque down the corresponding rockers
This has to be some of the most insanely stupid advice I've ever read on this forum!! Crap like this is what causes the novice to screw things up!!

Originally Posted by GucciFlKrakker01
okkay.. so i read a couple of other threads about these roller rockers and this one seemed to stay on topic even after 3 pages.. so. do you have to turn the motor over to tdc for every cylindor or just bolt on and ride then re check every now and then... ive seen so many diff opinions. what is the easiest and fastest way? (know it aintgo be no thiryt minutes lol) ..
If you are going to be installing new RR's and you don't have one of these in your tool box, spend the $13 and get one. It will make this a one man job and save you a lot of steps and time. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...229_0006398500 These can also be purchased at other parts stores.

Don't know about the Ram's but on my Dakota RT there's a gray connector at the back edge of the battery tray with a single brown wire going to the starter. Disconnect the connector, clip one lead to the end going to the starter and the other end to the positive post of the battery. Pushing the button will allow you to very slowly rotate the engine to bring the intake and exhaust rockers to a level position for proper torquing. It actually took me longer to take off and put back on the valve covers than it did to install and torque down the RR's!

Before I installed my HS 1.7 RR's several years back, I did a baseline dyno run on a completely stock engine. After the install, I went back for another dyno run and it showed an increase of 10hp/10tq. Not bad for a very simple bolt on mod. Even the guy operating the dyno was very impressed with the increase!
 
  #84  
Old 12-02-2011, 07:44 PM
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Quick question sorry to jump in with a question but.. was wondering should i get headers before installing the rollers or would they be fin with the exhuast manifolds?
 
  #85  
Old 12-02-2011, 08:42 PM
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The stock manifolds are actually not too bad. You could go either way. Headers help a little but not all that much. The biggest gains I got in my exhaust was when I went from a stock cat with 2.5" output to a 3" Magnaflow cat and catback. Now that was answeet upgrade. However, if yours is one of the years that has the y pipe from the factory then get rid of that too while you are at it as that is supposed to be really bad. My year didn't have that though s I never had the pleasure of seeing how bad for myself.
 
  #86  
Old 12-24-2011, 12:51 AM
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Just read this topic.

I need an explanation of difference b/t adjustable and non. Purpose of each application.

Thank you kindly!
 
  #87  
Old 12-24-2011, 09:33 AM
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Exactly that. The adjustables are adjustable for lifter pre-load. The non- flavor are put 'em on, torque 'em down, and you are done. For stock heads/cam, non-adjustables work fine. If you have aftermarket heads, or, a non-stock cam, you might need the adjustables.
 
  #88  
Old 12-24-2011, 09:47 AM
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And I... will be ordering my non-adjustable from MOPAC today! Woot Woot! Gotta love the xmas holidays and coming home from across the country! Gonna be one helluva project when I get home though...
 
  #89  
Old 12-24-2011, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Exactly that. The adjustables are adjustable for lifter pre-load. The non- flavor are put 'em on, torque 'em down, and you are done. For stock heads/cam, non-adjustables work fine. If you have aftermarket heads, or, a non-stock cam, you might need the adjustables.
Thanks. Can you link me to someone's setup where they used adjustables, assuming aftermarket heads/cam? lol I feel you've got a much better search method given the threads you've come across on here. Feel free to PM to me if its a clutter on this thread.

Much appreciated.

Originally Posted by InfO
And I... will be ordering my non-adjustable from MOPAC today! Woot Woot! Gotta love the xmas holidays and coming home from across the country! Gonna be one helluva project when I get home though...
MOPAC? link to the rockers? You didn't want to go this route?

 
  #90  
Old 12-24-2011, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Wh1t3NuKle
Thanks. Can you link me to someone's setup where they used adjustables, assuming aftermarket heads/cam? lol I feel you've got a much better search method given the threads you've come across on here. Feel free to PM to me if its a clutter on this thread.

Much appreciated.



MOPAC? link to the rockers? You didn't want to go this route?

You want these S70037. Name:  DSCF0456.jpg
Views: 24
Size:  91.0 KB
 



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