ok how do i get the chain off with the tensioner on it?

there are tensioners on either side of the chain or something...

on the left side the tensioner has a lip that covers a portion of the chain and on the right side its just pressing against the chain. is the left one even a tensioner?

when i put the crank sproket on at the +4 notch instead of 0, what other changes do i need to make?

BTW the cam sproket only has 1 notch

 

One side of the tensioner should have a spring on it. You should be able to push the shoe back, and there may, or may not... be some method of securing it back. (a hole that you put a small pin thru, or some such.....)

Here is an article for installing the gears/chain. Not a mopar, but, the procedure is pretty much the same. Just need to make sure you use the correct symbols on both gears when lining them up.

He brings up a good point there though, some cames are ground with 4 degrees advance built in..... advancing another four might cause you some trouble. (loss of low end, possible valve to piston clearance issues.....) Might wanna do some investigating on your cam before putting the gears on.

 

Mine was as follows
Callie stroker crank
Icon pistons
R/T Heads(60cc)(2.02-1.62)
Holley Billet 52mm TB(flows over 800cfm)
MP 1.7 RR's
Stock cam (274-440lift..approx with 1.7's)
Meilling high volume oil pump
Stock intake
MSD ignition
K&N 14" Extreme flow
Doug Thorley Headers
3" single exhaust with Flowmaster and High Flow cat
B&G tune
Accel # 30 injectors
Stock Magnum Rods
10.5 Compression
Since this is not a race engine the stock rods have a good reputation for being tough. The heads and intake were gasket matched and polished. We rebuilt tranny with Kevlar bands and heavy duty clutches,billet aluminum reverse servo,and Transgo JR shift kit with extra oiling oil drilled in for overdrive. Also had new bearings installed in rearend(sure grip..3.91 gears) as pinion race was on it's way out.
Had major problem with engine running lean but now runs sweet with #30 injectors. Could have been a tuning problem. Shifts at 5000rpm in auto and can manual shift to 5500. With stock cam starts drop-off at 5000.
Truck is a short box 4 by 4 and now is a real torquer from 850 rpm(ildle) up. Smooth and strong. I found my MP CAI wasn't giving enough air so went to X-treme circular air filter. I run 94 octane gas anyway so going to higher cmpression was not an issue. Have not had any pinging. I also use a 170 degree thermostat.

 

Just a little add on.stock 94's and 95's run 39lbs of fuel pressure we added a '96 regulater and took stock one off so fuel pressure is now 49lbs.

 

yea i just thought about that. im sure the local race shop had a good reason for not advancing it 4*

why the stock cam and intake w/ 2.02 heads? are the icons flat top? stock oil pan?

 

They are dish pistons. Had the R/T heads so used them. I also have the Mopar timing chain tensioner in it. The engine was really built to be a torque engine. Of course if I decide down the road to cam it up some more that option is there. The stock oil pan is still on it massaged so the rods don't hit it.

 

you need to pull the cam and hope to find a grind number engraved on the end.with out cam spec your spinning you wheels.b4 you pull the crank/pistons number them to there respected bore.

 

im sure there will be a grind number, but its not necessary. rods and pistons are already marked.

i have a pan that i thought was stock... it doesnt appear to be modified, but theres no interference when i turn the engine over. how did you manage 10.5:1 compression w/ 60cc chamber and dish pistons... i figured mine at around 9.8:1

 

A very minor shave was done on intake and heads while they were on my 360. Also check out compression chart on Icon site for ball park ratios.

 

im still debating on injector flow, but as far as brand goes... are these trick flows any good? if not which ones from here should i get?