408 stroker build
well, any comments as far as brand goes?
few unrealted questions:
ive heard that you need a deep sump oil pan to run a hi-voume oil pump?
are timing covers the same from '94-'01 5.9?
intermediate shaft bushing, how to tell if its been replaced or needs replacing? i can poke it and reveal a nice shiny brass
is it reccomended to weld the pik up tube on?
what needs to be applied to the head studs and roker studs? sealant? lube?
is head stud torque the same as OEM head bolt torque?
cant find any torque specs for rocker studs...?
few unrealted questions:
ive heard that you need a deep sump oil pan to run a hi-voume oil pump?
are timing covers the same from '94-'01 5.9?
intermediate shaft bushing, how to tell if its been replaced or needs replacing? i can poke it and reveal a nice shiny brass
is it reccomended to weld the pik up tube on?
what needs to be applied to the head studs and roker studs? sealant? lube?
is head stud torque the same as OEM head bolt torque?
cant find any torque specs for rocker studs...?
Last edited by matty675; Jan 8, 2011 at 08:46 PM.
I run a high volume pump on the stock oil pan no problems.
I think so........ Same crappy design for over a decade.
If in doubt, replace it. If you doubt you should doubt, replace it anyway.
I just threaded mine in nice and tight. When I thought it was 'good enough', I gave it another turn. It isn't going to come off. It can't.
Check the manual, some say NOTHING at all, others, a dab of sealant...... they go into the cooling jackets, so, a bit of RTV might be a good idea.
Torque should be the same.
01 service manual says 21 ft lbs..... I think that changes over the years though..... go to the dealer, ask to see the service manual for your truck. Look it up there to be sure. (or, if the service writers are nice, and not overly busy, you might be able to call them, and ask.)
I think so........ Same crappy design for over a decade.

If in doubt, replace it. If you doubt you should doubt, replace it anyway.
I just threaded mine in nice and tight. When I thought it was 'good enough', I gave it another turn. It isn't going to come off. It can't.
Check the manual, some say NOTHING at all, others, a dab of sealant...... they go into the cooling jackets, so, a bit of RTV might be a good idea.
Torque should be the same.
01 service manual says 21 ft lbs..... I think that changes over the years though..... go to the dealer, ask to see the service manual for your truck. Look it up there to be sure. (or, if the service writers are nice, and not overly busy, you might be able to call them, and ask.)
is the intermediate shaft bushing just a "tap in"?
haynes says permatex #2 sealant, but i thought you needed a lube too, to get proper torque, how do you lube the stud and put a sealant on it? i was going to buy a can of arp ultra-torque but dont know if its a sealant too.
yea ik the rocker arms are 21# but how bout the studs that theyre mounted on (ARP's)?
thanks for helping me get through this build
haynes says permatex #2 sealant, but i thought you needed a lube too, to get proper torque, how do you lube the stud and put a sealant on it? i was going to buy a can of arp ultra-torque but dont know if its a sealant too.
yea ik the rocker arms are 21# but how bout the studs that theyre mounted on (ARP's)?
thanks for helping me get through this build
Rocker studs? I don't know...... They should come with some documentation on how tight to screw 'em in.... or, do you not have the docs?
bushing should just be press in.
Seal the threads that go into the block, lube the threads that the nuts tighten down on to clamp the head.
I want to see them motor run, and how much you like it.
bushing should just be press in.
Seal the threads that go into the block, lube the threads that the nuts tighten down on to clamp the head.
I want to see them motor run, and how much you like it.
AHA i knew there was some sort of BLACK MAGIC to lubing and sealing hahaha.
no docs, guess il call ARP
cant seem to hammer that bushing out with a screw driver or anything... guess ill have the machinist do it... even though Hughes claims to be the only ones that know how to replace them haha
edit: got the bushing!
no docs, guess il call ARP
cant seem to hammer that bushing out with a screw driver or anything... guess ill have the machinist do it... even though Hughes claims to be the only ones that know how to replace them haha
edit: got the bushing!
Last edited by matty675; Jan 8, 2011 at 10:44 PM.
is the intermediate shaft bushing just a "tap in"?
haynes says permatex #2 sealant, but i thought you needed a lube too, to get proper torque, how do you lube the stud and put a sealant on it? i was going to buy a can of arp ultra-torque but dont know if its a sealant too.
yea ik the rocker arms are 21# but how bout the studs that theyre mounted on (ARP's)?
thanks for helping me get through this build
haynes says permatex #2 sealant, but i thought you needed a lube too, to get proper torque, how do you lube the stud and put a sealant on it? i was going to buy a can of arp ultra-torque but dont know if its a sealant too.
yea ik the rocker arms are 21# but how bout the studs that theyre mounted on (ARP's)?
thanks for helping me get through this build

Last edited by Adobedude; Jan 8, 2011 at 11:51 PM.
Then repeas the process with the engine running (And a set of valvecovers you cut the top off of).
Like all SBC rocker arms you get.







