408 stroker build
I have Danno's (modified shimmed) lifters so I set mine with a feeler gauge, they are almost like a solid roller, but let me spin my motor to 7K or more without falling apart.
You can set the valsh with the engine cold, pop the covers on and forget em...I did the engine running thing once, even cut up a good stock cover to do it...Never again
On adjustables, you torque the studs with loctite, let it dry overnight, then set the valve lash to 0 when both valves are closed and go 1/2 to 3/4 more and lock it down.
I have Danno's (modified shimmed) lifters so I set mine with a feeler gauge, they are almost like a solid roller, but let me spin my motor to 7K or more without falling apart.
You can set the valsh with the engine cold, pop the covers on and forget em...I did the engine running thing once, even cut up a good stock cover to do it...Never again
I have Danno's (modified shimmed) lifters so I set mine with a feeler gauge, they are almost like a solid roller, but let me spin my motor to 7K or more without falling apart.
You can set the valsh with the engine cold, pop the covers on and forget em...I did the engine running thing once, even cut up a good stock cover to do it...Never again
Oooops........ Did the same thing, sorta... on a 440 a friend and I built. Figgered we would prime the oil pump, before finishing some of the detail work. (like.... putting on the valve covers....) I was astounded at just how far you can shoot oil that way.........
I had the neat little clips for the rockers on my firebird. Reduced the mess, but, didn't eliminate it.
Cool. Ok.
I had the neat little clips for the rockers on my firebird. Reduced the mess, but, didn't eliminate it.
Cool. Ok.
yes they're crower enduro II full roller.
you said torque the stud w/ loctite, but whats the torque?
some forums say the intermediate shaft bushing has to be modified so the shaft will fit is that right?
you said torque the stud w/ loctite, but whats the torque?
some forums say the intermediate shaft bushing has to be modified so the shaft will fit is that right?
Does the base of the stud have a provision (nut) for a wrench, or do you have to double nut them to install or remove?


u can see the shiny metal through the distributor hole where the bushing used to be.
here it is on Summit
only reason i knew about it was because Hughes says that they replace them in their kit block as I was reviewing the Hughes block prep list
heres one of the studs. they are arps w/ the provision for a wrench

i also took the flex plate off w/o bothering to mark it, so how do i put it back on?
Last edited by matty675; Jan 9, 2011 at 01:51 PM.










