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408 stroker build

Old Jan 9, 2011 | 12:37 AM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by CPTAFW163
I thought you set the lash, lock it with the allan key locker, then torque it down?

Then repeas the process with the engine running (And a set of valvecovers you cut the top off of).

Like all SBC rocker arms you get.
On adjustables, you torque the studs with loctite, let it dry overnight, then set the valve lash to 0 when both valves are closed and go 1/2 to 3/4 more and lock it down.

I have Danno's (modified shimmed) lifters so I set mine with a feeler gauge, they are almost like a solid roller, but let me spin my motor to 7K or more without falling apart.

You can set the valsh with the engine cold, pop the covers on and forget em...I did the engine running thing once, even cut up a good stock cover to do it...Never again
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 12:38 AM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by Adobedude
On adjustables, you torque the studs with loctite, let it dry overnight, then set the valve lash to 0 when both valves are closed and go 1/2 to 3/4 more and lock it down.

I have Danno's (modified shimmed) lifters so I set mine with a feeler gauge, they are almost like a solid roller, but let me spin my motor to 7K or more without falling apart.

You can set the valsh with the engine cold, pop the covers on and forget em...I did the engine running thing once, even cut up a good stock cover to do it...Never again
Had good oil pressure I take it?
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 12:46 AM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Had good oil pressure I take it?
Yup...And a super clean engine, ceramic coated headers...Ouch.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 12:47 AM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Are the adjusters on the pivot? Or, the pushrod end of the rocker? A pic would be good here.......
The look like Crowers, adj is on the pivot.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 11:01 AM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by Adobedude
Yup...And a super clean engine, ceramic coated headers...Ouch.
Oooops........ Did the same thing, sorta... on a 440 a friend and I built. Figgered we would prime the oil pump, before finishing some of the detail work. (like.... putting on the valve covers....) I was astounded at just how far you can shoot oil that way.........

I had the neat little clips for the rockers on my firebird. Reduced the mess, but, didn't eliminate it.

Originally Posted by Adobedude
The look like Crowers, adj is on the pivot.
Cool. Ok.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 11:26 AM
  #126  
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yes they're crower enduro II full roller.

you said torque the stud w/ loctite, but whats the torque?

some forums say the intermediate shaft bushing has to be modified so the shaft will fit is that right?
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 12:43 PM
  #127  
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Erm, what bushing are you talking about? Post a pic? I was thinking in the trans.......
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 01:29 PM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by matty675
yes they're crower enduro II full roller.

you said torque the stud w/ loctite, but whats the torque?

some forums say the intermediate shaft bushing has to be modified so the shaft will fit is that right?
Can you post a good pick of the stud...?

Does the base of the stud have a provision (nut) for a wrench, or do you have to double nut them to install or remove?
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 01:33 PM
  #129  
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u can see the shiny metal through the distributor hole where the bushing used to be.

here it is on Summit

only reason i knew about it was because Hughes says that they replace them in their kit block as I was reviewing the Hughes block prep list

heres one of the studs. they are arps w/ the provision for a wrench




i also took the flex plate off w/o bothering to mark it, so how do i put it back on?
 

Last edited by matty675; Jan 9, 2011 at 01:51 PM.
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 02:15 PM
  #130  
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I will be checking/resetting my adj rockers sometime this week would you like me to take a short vid? I can set them ether way running, non-running or both makes no diff to me.
 
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