End-all Be-all plenum thread
How could you NOT interpret that to mean anything but that??? The "consequences" are first of all NUMBERED and second of all Number 2 clearly says: "Clogged cat will lead to #8 spark plug fouling out". That's not a statement thats open to interpretation. It's about as black and white as you can possibly get. Don't see how it can be interpreted to mean anything other than a clogged cat will lead to #8 spark plug fouling out. Hello?
My fault. I totally did not know that the OP and other contributing person's to the information were the engine designers/engineers/manufacturers/mechanics/etc. I fell for they...."what their **** don't stink?" conundrum. All things on the net is TRUE!!!
/sarcasm
By all means you can interpret the consequences list any way you like and I offered my spin on it. That wasn't to say that YOU interpreted it wrongly or for any matter. It's certainly a great list to understand symptoms of one's own vehicle. Carry on.
Also, I wasn't just "doing things" because of a lack of "direct basis". Give me at least a little bit of credit here. For one I take my time and research as much as possible before making that sort of investment and two, I don't have that kind of money to just throw around senselessly. I was doing it because IT WAS RECOMMENDED by Hughes Engines and a number of posts on this thread. Sure its possible they (Hughes and other members of this forum) just neglected to elaborate that you would also need the SCT Tuner if you used that stat, but truth is I'm not convinced that they did neglect to elaborate at all. The reason Hughes and no previous post on this thread had claimed you have to have a tuner with that stat may just be because in fact you don't.
Two decent threads on this from the past:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...hermostat.html
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...gree-stat.html
Discuss this further in those threads, not here. I took a cheap shot at you b/c you only stated your reasoning to be a Seller's Recommendation. Damn...whose got a bridge to sell?
(I'm just trying to lighten this up, so don't jump) For the record, I've asked this before, but no one would kindly link me to the threads. Real dbags around here make you search for schtuff.
I'm not having any problem with the way the engine is running. The truck is running great. It seems to be tuned just fine. My problem has nothing to do with the engines tuning. It's a lack of heat from the heater and last time I checked, a tune isn't going to up the temp of the liquid in my heater core one degree. It's the fact that the flow in the core is so lousy that it requires hotter liquid to generate decent heat. I am willing to bet that with a good core the heat would be just fine. There's nothing wrong with the way the engine is running. It's running like it's brand new. Never better in fact.
SHEESH YOU GUYS! Someone **** in your corn flakes this morning or what???
SHEESH YOU GUYS! Someone **** in your corn flakes this morning or what???
You got some thin skin....
Same guy that got yours apparently. 
Running the 180 stat makes zero difference on your engine, and can actually hurt fuel economy. PCM EXPECTS the engine to warm to 195, and when it doesn't, it will richen the mixture a bit to help it along. That's the reason folks recommend a tuner to go with it. Then the PCM actually has a clue. This particular topic has been debated to no end here.... LOTS of threads on this particular topic.
But, a tune most certainly will not make your heater hotter.
You could try back flushing it, (that has worked fairly well for some). Or, do a full system chemical flush, and pay some special attention to the heater core. Your problem is more'n likely due to either the core being plugged up to some extent, or, an air bubble trapped in there. (which is unfortunately rather common on these trucks.... silly design really.)

Running the 180 stat makes zero difference on your engine, and can actually hurt fuel economy. PCM EXPECTS the engine to warm to 195, and when it doesn't, it will richen the mixture a bit to help it along. That's the reason folks recommend a tuner to go with it. Then the PCM actually has a clue. This particular topic has been debated to no end here.... LOTS of threads on this particular topic.
But, a tune most certainly will not make your heater hotter.
You could try back flushing it, (that has worked fairly well for some). Or, do a full system chemical flush, and pay some special attention to the heater core. Your problem is more'n likely due to either the core being plugged up to some extent, or, an air bubble trapped in there. (which is unfortunately rather common on these trucks.... silly design really.)
i just bought the plenum plate off ebay, and i was just needing some help on all the other parts i need to buy or what else is recomended? what is the best gaskets and bolts to buy? thanks guys
Bolts from dealer, they are actually cheaper...... Fel-Pro gaskets. The little short coolant bypass hose.
Doing cap and rotor, and maybe even plug wires while the intake is out of the way really isn't a bad idea. It will never be any easier. (unless you pull the engine....)
Doing cap and rotor, and maybe even plug wires while the intake is out of the way really isn't a bad idea. It will never be any easier. (unless you pull the engine....)
Dorman makes a complete kit, part # 615310, it has all the gaskets, both sets of bolts, t-stat with oring, and the bypass hose. 30 bucks on Rock Auto.
edit: Here ya go.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2194496
edit: Here ya go.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2194496
So I bought the felpro intake gasket kit, are these all of the gaskets I need? I also bought the eBay plenum plate and what bolts do I need? Can I buy those online or do I have to buy them at the dealer because the closest dealer is pretty far from me







