No oil pressure :( help
#1
No oil pressure :( help
Well, one day I did my plenum, since then my oil pressure gauge acts as a tach and only registers over 2.5k, replaced the oil pressure switch on top of the block. Still had the issue and was certain that is was a bad oil pump i decided to embark on replacing the pump this morning.
It's about 8pm and I'm completely stumpted, I put everything back on, replaced my pickup screen, put in a high volume oil pump, did rear main seals. And still, it had no oil pressure, knocks, and when you unscrew the switch at the back of the motor it doesn't squirt oil (i assume it should) any ideas on my next step? I did prime it too...
It's about 8pm and I'm completely stumpted, I put everything back on, replaced my pickup screen, put in a high volume oil pump, did rear main seals. And still, it had no oil pressure, knocks, and when you unscrew the switch at the back of the motor it doesn't squirt oil (i assume it should) any ideas on my next step? I did prime it too...
#2
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Hhhhmmm......
I hate to suggest this... but....
Turn the engine so that number one cylinder is in firing position. Pull the distributor cap, and mark where the rotor is pointing, and also put index marks on the base of the dist, and the block. (so you can install it in the same spot....) pull the distributor, and CAREFULLY note what direction the slot in the drive gear is pointing. Remove the drive gear........ Take the drive gear to wherever they sell steel rods of various shapes. (metal supply store, or some such.....) get one that is long enough to reach the oil pump, but, leave enough room to attach a drill to the end of it. ( not a lot of space to play with back in there.... also might be able to find an oil pump priming tool at the parts store... might be easier, but, more expensive.) Put your priming tool into the oil pump, and attach your drill, needs to turn clockwise.... spin the oil pump, and see if you can get any pressure. If you can't, drop the pan again, and make sure the pickup tube is screwed into the pump tight, and is not blocked by something... (like a rag.... don't ask...)
I hate to suggest this... but....
Turn the engine so that number one cylinder is in firing position. Pull the distributor cap, and mark where the rotor is pointing, and also put index marks on the base of the dist, and the block. (so you can install it in the same spot....) pull the distributor, and CAREFULLY note what direction the slot in the drive gear is pointing. Remove the drive gear........ Take the drive gear to wherever they sell steel rods of various shapes. (metal supply store, or some such.....) get one that is long enough to reach the oil pump, but, leave enough room to attach a drill to the end of it. ( not a lot of space to play with back in there.... also might be able to find an oil pump priming tool at the parts store... might be easier, but, more expensive.) Put your priming tool into the oil pump, and attach your drill, needs to turn clockwise.... spin the oil pump, and see if you can get any pressure. If you can't, drop the pan again, and make sure the pickup tube is screwed into the pump tight, and is not blocked by something... (like a rag.... don't ask...)
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ok about 8 years ago i did a engine flush. i poured about 2 gallons of kerosene into the engine and ran it for several minutes. then i dropped the oil pan and OMG!!! i got all kind of sludge in the pan. i cleaned out the pan and replaced the pan and added my oil and new filter and took off down the road. when the truck got hot i lost oil pressure at idle. as long as i keept it around 1500 or higher i had oil pressure. so i dropped the pan again and found small brass colored slivers of metal. the main bearing were shot. i believe it was the result of the kerosene and flushing out the motor. if you have a lot of sludge and it aint pumping oil then im afraid your in for a rebuild.
when i tore my motor down i had blocked oil passages.
just my 2 cents.
when i tore my motor down i had blocked oil passages.
just my 2 cents.