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Pulling my tranny this evening....

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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 08:59 PM
  #151  
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Looks like there is a bit less swept surface area there, but, should be golden.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 09:09 PM
  #152  
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"Should"...lol I just hope its not one of those, woulda been better off putting the old washer back in, instead of installing the wrong diameter new washer...=P
 
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 10:33 PM
  #153  
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Could call 'em and have a chat with 'em first? Better safe than sorry.......
 
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Old Aug 24, 2011 | 09:38 PM
  #154  
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Swapped my washer with a phone call...even delivered, and an apology. Great service. Although they did short me 4 frictions and 5 steels. So its really kosher to replace a top pressure plate with 2 more steels and a friction in between? This is what seems to be expected when upgrading the clutch pack in the O/D, does the same hold true for the clutches in the main case? I'm just curious if the clearance is really only the main concern...So as long as the clearance is relatively the same, you can substitute that top pressure plate with 2 more steels and another friction....? I hope that makes sense. LOL ;P
 
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Old Aug 25, 2011 | 09:57 PM
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Seriously....wtf over...lol whats the secret to getting the dern input shaft installed in the case with the clutches. I've tried standing in upright like the FSM suggests. I've layed it horizontally slightly elevating the front side with wood blocks...I just cant get that dang drum to interface with the sun gear shell...Been at this for an hour now...=P
 
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Old Aug 25, 2011 | 10:10 PM
  #156  
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are the gears not meshing correctly? Might have to give 'em all a wiggle one by one until it drops in.

Or, are you trying to get a splined shaft to insert into the clutch pack? (i think there is an alignment tool for that purpose......)
 
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Old Aug 25, 2011 | 10:18 PM
  #157  
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I'm installing the input shaft into the case. With the front and rear clutch pack attached. The forward ring gear must align with the forward clutch disc teeth. Then the direct clutch teeth must align with the direct clutch hub all while meshing together enough to engage the two interfaces (tabbed) between the sun gear shell and the direct drum. PITA.
Quote from Joels Garage Blog...
"Now install the clutch assembly with the input shaft into the main case. Now that I'm done with this project, I can, without a doubt, say that this was the ABSOLUTE MOST frustrating part of this whole job. Grrr! The Factory Service Manual said to place the case in an upright position. I tried that. It worked about as well as standing on my head. Trying to do it with the case horizontally worked about as well as trying to breath underwater! All the friction pieces tend to get misaligned, and then you have to pull the pieces apart, re-align it all, then try again. All the while getting more and more ATF all about your person. So, patience, I guess. Just make sure, in the end, that the thrust washer that you just installed on the end of the input shaft stays. It tended to "migrate" to other parts of the transmission with little bumps."
IMO, he's being very gracious using the word "frustrating". Not exactly the verbage I'd use.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2011 | 10:51 PM
  #158  
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Success...Theres a oil gallery or some type of lubrication slit in the I.D. of the direct drum. As long as you have your clutch teeth lined up properly, put the shaft and the attached forward clutch down first, tranny standing upright. Then take a small 90 degree angle pick and insert it in the lubrication slit using it as a way to hold one side with a tool, and 180 degrees opposite use your other available hand and just line up the interfaces before you drop it in, and voila!! Moving on...my god. I screw with it for an hour, get pissed, post on here, take 15 minutes to go inside and get something to drink, then go back to it and it sinks into position first try.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 09:20 AM
  #159  
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Isn't that usually how it works though?

You ARE going to do a write up on this, with pics, aren't you?
 
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 05:49 PM
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Write up hosted on DF...absolutely. At any rate, now the pumps kicking my ace. Went to Napa and got 2 5/16th" studs doing everything by the book and the damn pump seems to need some coercion. I don't wanna do that because the book says not to even use a rubber mallet. I've centered the steel seal rings around the reaction shaft, but it just doesn't wanna go past a certain point dropping in. Wiggle it in by hand...HAH! Breaktime...lol
 
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