$24.25

after tons of research i decided i didn't want to risk using anything but the castrol syntorq LT from the factory. i probably could have gotten away with using a regular old GL5/MT1 oil because it's high pressure, low temp, and safe for yellow metals. but the nv4500 is way to expensive to repair or replace to risk it for the chance to save a few bucks on oil. plus i'd have to change other oils at mileage intervals and this syntorq is supposed to be a lifetime fill. i don't have to change it as long as i can keep water out of it. i doubt my little jeep and gas motor will be able to make this tranny burn up the oil.

 

I only went with amsoil because it has been extensively tested and everything i read was people giving it praise. The price was also attractive

 

the best price i could find on the amsoil was around 16 bucks a quart i think. same thing with the royal purple equivalent. and both of those were before shipping so it would have only been a little cheaper. i'm sure it would have been fine since i'm light weight and a gas motor, but for the peace of mind of never having to worry about it, it's worth the extra ~$20-$30 for the new venture recommended castrol.

i've spent the last week researching every aspect of why this thing needs such a specific oil. i know so much more about gl4, gl5, and mt1 gear oils than i ever wanted to. and with everything i learned, the acceptable alternatives just aren't cheaper enough to warrant the gamble. even if it's a small gamble.

 

Nice read and I hope you keep us all up to date

 

ok here's where i got over the weekend.


setting them next to each other, their lengths are almost exactly the same. anyone doing the straight auto to manual swap should be able to re use their old drive shafts as long as they don't change any thing else. the nv4500 is a tad shorter but the difference is so minimal that i'd have to get a level to find out exactly how much.


when using a dana 300 without a clocking ring on the back of a nv4500, the front output is really tight against the transmission when you are using a cv shaft. i may have to switch to a regular u joint here. i'll update this later.


and the last picture... if you'll ignore the torched blow hole that i never fixed after installing my twin stick (because i was always planning on switching to a stick again as soon as i could)...

you'll see where the shifter comes up in relation to the stock shifter hole in the tunnel. now, since i swapped to the v8 instead of the I6 things were already going to be a little further forward add that to the nv4500's more forward than average shifter location and you get what you see there. moving the airbag control module will be easy. but hopefully i won't have to cut into the dash for shifter clearance, but at this point i don't really know for sure and i'm not ruling it out.

and lastly, three things that i learned this weekend...

when switching from the auto to manual, you need a full pilot bearing with the sleeve. the little 1" roller bearing in the clutch kit is useless without the sleeve.

and 2, the CPS is not the same between the auto and manual. and the manual one is $40 more than the auto one. so that was $80 i wasn't planning on spending.

3, the bellhousing flange on the nv4500 is slightly thinner than the 46re so some of my bolts were too long and i'm actually less than a quarter inch from being completely cinched down still. i bought new bolts this morning. hopefully that's the issue and it's not because the dust cover isnt in place. i'll update this as well as progress goes.
on the odd chance that it is because of the missing dust cover, i was planning on making one that just covered the exposed bottom half of the BH, but if it is because of the missing dust cover, is it safe to use washers between the bh and engine to simulate the thickness of the dust cover?

any questions?

 

Dust cover is less than an eighth of an inch thick... shouldn't be an issue not having it in there.

Are the bolt holes blind holes? (don't go all the way thru)

 

that's what i was thinking, dustcovers are usually just a heavier gauge piece of aluminum sheet metal. certainly no thicker than a washer. but is the input machined to need that? will it bottom out on the pilot bearing without it? god i hope not. lol.

yeah, the bolt holes have a couple issues. the lowest bolt holes on the block (9 o clock and 3 o clock) that go through the horns on the block and into the bh are barely grabbing on and the skip the threads with only the slightest amount of torque. so i'm thinking they may be 10x1.5 metric instead of 3/8x16 like everything else. i'm going to try a metric bolt and if that doesn't work, i'll just run a long bolt through and nut it.

and yes, the 2 bolt holes that seem to be shallower than the rest are the bolt holes at the 10 o clock and 2 o clock positions. they're in right now, but they're bottomed out. so i bought some 1 inch and some 3/4 inch bolts to see what i can fit in there.

11, 12, & 1 o clock bolts are all in and fine. and the dowels are properly aligned.

 

No! Do not use washers between the bellhousing and the block. If you do then your entire tranny/tcase will be supported by stretchable bolts, it needs the support it gets from being pressed up flush against the motor.

Oh, also its spaced correctly sitting flush.

 

lol. fwiw, i was (mostly) kidding about the washers.

anyway, i did more to it last night. and i think the person that had this transmission before me used an impact to tighten all their bolts because 3/8x16 is definitely the right size but they're all stripped out. as a stroke of luck i had some decently strong (not grade 8, but not chinese crap either) long shoulderless bolts from some of the bracketry on my old 4.0 motor. anyway, i was able to thread those in and with a nut on the back i was able to pull the trans the rest of the way down to the motor. everything is flush now. i had to do the same thing with the starter. because those threads wouldn't grab on either.

any way, i'll get more done tonight. i only had about 45 minutes of day light when i got home yesterday.

 

well futily i was trying to be lazy and hope that i wouldn't have to move the air bag module.



but i do. i have to cut at least another half inch out to clear the tower. and that means at least cutting the corner off the airbag module's bracket. maybe removing it all together.

also, at the current height in the above picture, this is how much of the trans is still hanging down.



so i'd like to get it up at least a few more inches. (giggity) and hopefully it will still be above my stock skid plate height so i can use that as the cross member as before without needing any major floor removal to clear the transmission. also i'm really trying to avoid having the shifter hit the lower part of the dash if possible. but ground clearance is more important than the dash if it comes down to only being able to choose one.