I like HeyYou's comment a lot. If it came apart inside, rebuilding can cost more than rebuilding & a crate motor is a good option. If you can find 1 at a salvage yard you trust you can try that, but I gotta say there are few gaurantees on salvage quality sometimes. Good luck man. If you want, we can help you find the PO & hold him down while you punch him.

 

Hell I know where he lives lol thanks for the humor cuz I'm pretty bummed out. I wanted it for the bad West Virginia weather approaching the next few months. Disappointing. But maybe its not completely ruined. I called the dumbass back and he said they didn't remove the belt or plugs so maybe something else is seized, ac compressor? LOL its hard for me not to be optimistic. But I already looked into crate motors with (sorry just got distracted, the wife walked by naked) where was I...

 

Oh yeah... But unfortunately they decided to close until Monday without calling me back. Bastards. Thanks for the replies and hope!!

 

She will be so happy that you posted THAT! lol

 

What is more distracting, bewbs or squirrels?

 

Seems like a trick question, while not being too tricky?!?!

 

see, its not all bad...

i wouldn't want to pay too much expensive shop labor time investigating the old motor. it could be a waste of money, and depending on the shop, it could add up far too fast. they've probably already got you for a couple of hours of screwing around with the starter, which should have been ruled out in about 5 minutes or less. based on your descriptions - they should have started with "check motor for rotation" before ever questioning the starter. unless you're getting a good deal, and/or the shop is a friend that's not going to charge you for every minute - i'd take it somewhere else, or - stop paying them to waste time.

if it was mine, and there was any way i had the time, and since your own labor is free - i'd start removing the things most likely to be easy fixes. start with valve covers to inspect drive train, with the hope of finding a problem with push rod, rocker, or valve.

also, as said, try rotating the motor each way to see if you've got rotation to a point. if so, the odds of an easy fix are much better than if its locked up both ways.

if not in the valve train, i'd pull the water pump and timing cover and see if the timing chain broke or jumped. if so, the valves are likely bent, but the whole thing might be repaired with a new set of loaded heads for about $600. if so, the next step is to pull the heads and inspect pistons and free rotation.

if i didn't have any time or money to waste on the old motor, then depending on budget, i'd see about a junk yard engine swap or a rebuilt engine and move on directly to that point (and shop).

just curious, how many miles on current engine?

 

The shop doesn't charge if they can't find anything for sure. They open at 7 on Monday so I'll be towing it home. Insurance said they'd tow it for no charge since they couldn't fix it.

And the motor only has 85k miles, which makes me not want to put a new one in yet lol.

If the timing chain did fail, what would all need to be replaced/fixing (usually)? I was going to inspect it this weekend when I was doing plenum fix. I suspected slack because of my idle issues that no one and no replacement part could fix.

 

Timing chain failure has the potential to smoke some valves.... that would mean pulling the heads. It's possible the interference you are getting is pistons hitting valves...... I have rarely, if ever seen a timing chain fail completely though..... when you dig down to it, if it isn't obviously broke, verify that the marks line up correctly. Might have slipped. (which can be just as bad.)

 

Ok so I got it home and pulled the belt, it wouldn't turn at the crank. Turned opposite way and turned easily a good four turns then stopped. Went back the opposite way and turned same amount then stopped. What could be stopping it? What should be next step, pull valve covers?