changed header gasket now no start
#141
honestly, the whole 'jump timing' thing is just a guess to begin with.. but it's the only one that makes sense to me...
it would be easier to spot if it was broken than if it just jumped a few teeth.. if it is broken, the cam won't turn at all- so neither would the rotor button.. blam- there is no way around it, the chain is broken..
if it is out of tune- and only in effort to explore- and because I'm lazy as I can be- he 'could' advance the firing order.. put cylinder one's wire on the post just after the one it's supposed to be on.. follow it on around with the rest.. try to turn it over.. no? one more post.. no? another.. so-on.. by the time you finished this, though, you could have taken the front off...
pointing the button at #1 when it's at TDC/1 is a good way, and a lot quicker.. but I'd make sure that rotor button is moving by manually turning the engine and watching the little booger..
it would be easier to spot if it was broken than if it just jumped a few teeth.. if it is broken, the cam won't turn at all- so neither would the rotor button.. blam- there is no way around it, the chain is broken..
if it is out of tune- and only in effort to explore- and because I'm lazy as I can be- he 'could' advance the firing order.. put cylinder one's wire on the post just after the one it's supposed to be on.. follow it on around with the rest.. try to turn it over.. no? one more post.. no? another.. so-on.. by the time you finished this, though, you could have taken the front off...
pointing the button at #1 when it's at TDC/1 is a good way, and a lot quicker.. but I'd make sure that rotor button is moving by manually turning the engine and watching the little booger..
#144
honestly, the whole 'jump timing' thing is just a guess to begin with.. but it's the only one that makes sense to me...
it would be easier to spot if it was broken than if it just jumped a few teeth.. if it is broken, the cam won't turn at all- so neither would the rotor button.. blam- there is no way around it, the chain is broken..
if it is out of tune- and only in effort to explore- and because I'm lazy as I can be- he 'could' advance the firing order.. put cylinder one's wire on the post just after the one it's supposed to be on.. follow it on around with the rest.. try to turn it over.. no? one more post.. no? another.. so-on.. by the time you finished this, though, you could have taken the front off...
pointing the button at #1 when it's at TDC/1 is a good way, and a lot quicker.. but I'd make sure that rotor button is moving by manually turning the engine and watching the little booger..
it would be easier to spot if it was broken than if it just jumped a few teeth.. if it is broken, the cam won't turn at all- so neither would the rotor button.. blam- there is no way around it, the chain is broken..
if it is out of tune- and only in effort to explore- and because I'm lazy as I can be- he 'could' advance the firing order.. put cylinder one's wire on the post just after the one it's supposed to be on.. follow it on around with the rest.. try to turn it over.. no? one more post.. no? another.. so-on.. by the time you finished this, though, you could have taken the front off...
pointing the button at #1 when it's at TDC/1 is a good way, and a lot quicker.. but I'd make sure that rotor button is moving by manually turning the engine and watching the little booger..
drew the rotor is most deffinatly moving. i may try the post swaping thing to see if it fires
#145
if the rotor button is spinning, your chain is intact.. question remains: did you skip timing?
#146
#148
It should NOT be free spinning by itself with the hand.
It should ONLY move if you are turning the motor with starter or manually at H/B or camshaft. At this point you only can turn via starter and H/B.
Please clarify.
#149
it may run if you do.. but it won't be happy about it.. not even a little happy.. I'd be damn quick to the ignition if I got ANY fire out of it doing that.. a matter of fact, forget I mentioned it.. there is too much at stake to risk slapping valves..
if the rotor button is spinning, your chain is intact.. question remains: did you skip timing?
if the rotor button is spinning, your chain is intact.. question remains: did you skip timing?
well i bought this truck at 155k so i have no idea if the chian was replaced at any point. and if it is the original chain at 184k then its bound to be pretty loose. if i can bum a ride to the parts store before it closes i may grab everything needed to swap the chain and do it anyways. wouldnt it be pretty easy to see if the cam and crank sprokets were off with the cover off?
#150
Need you to be a bit more clear on the movement of the rotor.
It should NOT be free spinning by itself with the hand.
It should ONLY move if you are turning the motor with starter or manually at H/B or camshaft. At this point you only can turn via starter and H/B.
Please clarify.
It should NOT be free spinning by itself with the hand.
It should ONLY move if you are turning the motor with starter or manually at H/B or camshaft. At this point you only can turn via starter and H/B.
Please clarify.
it only moves with the starter or by H/B. its pretty snug at the distributor