changed header gasket now no start
#121
so number 1 TDC is in the middle if the yellow box, sorry the resolution isnt all that great on my computer screen
#124
#125
I haven't a clue. At this stage, just see what lines up. DO NOT unbolt the distributor clamp. You do not want to move the (twist) the housing. If you do, get a paint stick and mark at least 3 spots from housing to the block or something. But you won't be able to now that I think about it b/c of the Keg in the way.
Just check the TDC marks. The h/B actually has 2 marks on it. Before I go any farther (as well as anyone else), are you decided you will change Tchain or wait?
The only absolute way is to verify 3 things at the same time, Rotor at TD1, H/B mark at TDC1, and Cyl 1 Intake Valve on compression stroke. Must have #1 plug out. The Haynes manual describes this very well.
I don't mean to go too far here, I'm always into small steps.
Just check the TDC marks. The h/B actually has 2 marks on it. Before I go any farther (as well as anyone else), are you decided you will change Tchain or wait?
The only absolute way is to verify 3 things at the same time, Rotor at TD1, H/B mark at TDC1, and Cyl 1 Intake Valve on compression stroke. Must have #1 plug out. The Haynes manual describes this very well.
I don't mean to go too far here, I'm always into small steps.
#126
If everything is up to snuff, it should be pretty damn close. The 'pin' for number one cylinder ideally would be in the center of the rotor end..... if it's off by a few degrees, no big deal, if the end of the rotor isn't at least close to where the pin in the cap is, you have a problem.
#127
#128
I haven't a clue. At this stage, just see what lines up. DO NOT unbolt the distributor clamp. You do not want to move the (twist) the housing. If you do, get a paint stick and mark at least 3 spots from housing to the block or something. But you won't be able to now that I think about it b/c of the Keg in the way.
Just check the TDC marks. The h/B actually has 2 marks on it. Before I go any farther (as well as anyone else), are you decided you will change Tchain or wait?
The only absolute way is to verify 3 things at the same time, Rotor at TD1, H/B mark at TDC1, and Cyl 1 Intake Valve on compression stroke. Must have #1 plug out. The Haynes manual describes this very well.
I don't mean to go too far here, I'm always into small steps.
Just check the TDC marks. The h/B actually has 2 marks on it. Before I go any farther (as well as anyone else), are you decided you will change Tchain or wait?
The only absolute way is to verify 3 things at the same time, Rotor at TD1, H/B mark at TDC1, and Cyl 1 Intake Valve on compression stroke. Must have #1 plug out. The Haynes manual describes this very well.
I don't mean to go too far here, I'm always into small steps.
im going to change the chain IF valve timing is the issue. i dont have a haynes manual, so would that be in the service manual?could i stick a screwdriver or somethin in the plug hole to verify compression stroke?
#129
#130
good way to check TDC is take out the plugs rotate the engine the same direction as it does when you hit the starter. Hold your finger over the hole for the spark plug #1 and when you feel the piston pressure blowing your finger off you know its coming up on the compression stroke. then stick a screwdriver in the hole and try to get the piston all the way at the top, verify the mark on the H/B, i don't know if you can see it for the water pump and things on the front of the motor. Then take the cap off and see if it lines up like everyone else said. I sure hope it does.
I hope these motors are not interference motor. I have personally seen what happens when an interference engine jumps time. It is not pretty or cheap to fix.
I hope these motors are not interference motor. I have personally seen what happens when an interference engine jumps time. It is not pretty or cheap to fix.