Here's a pic of a new piston...the tabs are considerably shorter on these and look pretty much like what I have after I broke it. Out of curiosity, what is the purpose of the longer (stock) skirt tabs vs. the shorter almost non-existent (replacement) tabs. I always thought they were there for stabilization in the cylinder, but if the new one doesn't really have 'em....?

 

You need one that looks like the stockers. Otherwise, you are going to get engine killing vibrations.

Or, replace all of them as a set...... You cannot re-use the broken one, as again, you will induce engine-killing vibrations. ALL pistons need to weigh damn near the same amount.

 

understood...I think my understanding of the importance of those little extruded tabs was exaggerated. I guess, other than balance, they would serve no real purpose as they never truly make contact with anything.

Ever had any experience with the 'Keith Black' piston sets that Summit sells?

 

KB makes good stuff.

 

Got the block back from the machine shop today. It's cleaned, honed, new freeze plugs and new cam bearings...waiting on the crank now...

 

Coat it with WD 40, or some similar oil, and bag it, so it doesn't rust up while you wait.

How much was the machine work?

 

machine work was $200...another $30 for them to clean/polish/mic the crank. Plus, I'll probably get them to install the wrist pins in the new pistons. After what it took to remove them I know I don't want to subject the new pistons to that.

Here's a list of what I intend to build. Let me know if you guys see something that you would do differently (given that this is street use only)...I don't want to end up with a $10,000 engine but I would like to be content with it once it is complete and not regret anything...

-Keith Black 107 pistons/rings
-New Odessa EQ Iron Ram Heads (2.02/1.625) max .515 lift
-Stock cam/lifters (open for suggestions)
-HS 1.7 rollers (if using the stock cam)
-Stock (modded) intake/throttle body for now
-Summit Shorty Headers
-Double roller timing set, HV oil pump, water pump, etc...

I'm pretty confused on what to do with the cam situation. With the EQ heads I feel I have a little more room for options but I don't want to open another can of expensive worms unless it's going to be a very noticeable upgrade. You guys think the EQ head springs will support a mild cam?

 

This one looks tasty.

Given that you have roller lifters, should be able to re-use the lifters. Rollers don't generate a wear pattern, so, they do not become lobe specific.

 

you think the EQ springs can handle that? I think I'll call Keith tomorrow and get his recommendation. He was good at selling me on the EQ heads compared to their stock remans so we'll see how he does with cam recommendations

Since I've never heard this engine run, is there a down and dirty way to test a lifter. They may be fine but I would hate to have one that is collapsed or 'ticky' when I crank 'er up the first time. The FSM shows a fancy little leak down press but if it comes to that I had just assume replace them.

 

Your heads are good to .515 lift, that cam is .512. Operating range is 900 to 5200, nice fat power band, and cranks those valves open to take advantage of those big valves. (I woulda went with the 1.92's personally, but with the better head casting. Better for low end grunt, which is what you want in a truck.)