ok will do&therw are two sensors on the front of the intake,I closer to the pass side&the other one...Im guessing one is for the temp sensor&the other is????&which is which?

 

The single wire sensor is for the temp gauge in the dash, the two wire sensor is for the PCM.

 

Ok so here's where we're @ just got finished so far no leaks...temp gauge got up to 220 but not any higher.Im wondering if it has to do with the fact that I just replaced the sensor.Im gonna let it set for 20 minutes&go check everything back out.Ill keep ya posted.

 

Ok its fine...but the temp gauge is usually @200 but it keeps going to 220 as I said earlier...could I have screwed the sensors in to far or not enough?Still no cruise so going to get a smoke test.Also I have a cel on if I turn the truck of itll come right back on.Any ideas I thought egr code was only a once in awhile code.None of the parts stores around here has obd1...&any ideas how to reset it?

 

You can get trouble codes through the check engine light. Put the key in the ignition and turn it on-off-on-off-on within a few seconds ....you don't have to set a speed record...but not to slow either. Then count the flashes....pen and paper will help. You will get a code 12 to start with flash.....flash..flash. Means battery disconnect within last 50 starts. Seems that one is always there...my battery hasn't been disconnected in years and it still comes up, so has every other dodge obd 1 I've checked this way Ignore that one.

O.K. now see what you get...they will be 2 digit codes with a slightly longer pause between the old code and the next...when you get to the end of the codes it will flash 55 (five flashes.. pause.. five flashes) Which means end of codes, if you get confused you can start over with the on-off-on-off-on.

On the cruse...if the fuse is good and there is vacuum at the unit (pull the hose with the engine running...check for vacuum) I had my brake light switch go outta wack....didn't know till a buddy was behind me and asked why I was riding the brakes....I wasn't....that will turn off the cruse...(and keep the converter from locking up). See what you get..

 

Thanks I had no idea you could do that!Sweet!Well Ill check cruise again in the morning,I know the vac line is hooked up.Also I dont know why but I just went to make a run&put her in reverse&she died after moving only a few feet.Shes never died on me before.Also when I start her it sounds like she idles really low for a split second.Im guessing its becaude of the egr delete&the hot air isnt coming through the egr tube any longer idk?

 

Does the key trick work on OBDI trucks????

If it doesn't, get a paper clip, and stick it in pins a and b on the ALDL. (the two in the upper right corner of the connector.) and turn the ignition on. CEL should blink codes at you.

 

Yes, works on my 95 and did on my 94. The diagnostic connector is under hood up through 95, In 96 (obd II) it moved under the dash.

Thinking about it you probably have an egr code, without it hooked up.
From a different forum .......

How to get the code/s for Chrysler 1983-1995 vehicles:

Within a period of 5 seconds, cycle the ignition key
ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON. (leave key on for codes)

To clear them, disconnect the battery for a few minutes



1. Count the number of time the MIL (check engine lamp)
on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number
of flashes represents the trouble code. There is a short
pause between the flashes representing the 1st and 2nd
digits of the code. Longer pauses are used to separate
individual 2-digit trouble code.

An example of a flashed DTC is as follows:

-Lamp flashes 4 times, pauses, then flashes 6 more times.

This denotes a DTC number 46.
-Lamp flashes 5 times, pauses, then flashes 5 more times.

This indicates a DTC number 55.
DTC 55 will always be the last code to be displayed.

And code definitions

11 camshaft signal or ignition signal, no reference signal during cranking
12 memory to controller has been cleared within 50-100 engine starts
13 map sensor vacuum, no change from start to run or output voltage does not equal throttle position
14 map voltage too high or too low
15 vehicle speed sensor, no signal detected
16 knock sensor circuit. open or short detected
17 low engine temperature, possible thermostat fault
21 oxygen sensor signal, neither rich or lean detected
22 coolant sensor voltage low/high
23 air charge voltage high/low detected
24 throttle position sensor voltage high/low
25 automatic idle speed motor driver circuit, short or open detected
26 injectors 1,2,3 peak current not reached, problem in injector control circuits cylinder 1 and/or 2.
27 injector control circuit does not respond to control signal, problem in injector control circuits 3 and/or 4
31 purge solenoid circuit, open or short detected
32 egr solenoid circuit, open or short detected
33 a/c clutch relay circuit, open or short detected
34 speed control servo solenoid, open or short detected
35 radiator fan control relay circuit, open or short detected
36 wastegate solenoid, open or short detected
37 Baro read solenoid
41 charging system circuit not responding to control signal, alternator field circuit not switching properly
42 fuel pump or auto shutdown (ASD) relay voltage sensed at controller
42 Z1 voltage sense
43 ignition control circuit not responding
44 battery temperature voltage circuit problem
45 turbo boost limit exceeded-map sensor detects overboost
46 battery voltage too high..overcharging
47 battery voltage too low...battery voltage low or charging output low
51 air/fuel at limit
51 lean exhaust indication, O2 voltage latched below .450 volts
52 logic module fault
52 rich exhaust indication, O2 voltage latched above .450 volts
53 internal controller failure (normal code on a re-calibrated controller)
54 fuel sync signal not detected during cranking
55 end of message
61 baro read solenoid, open or short detected
62 emr mileage not stored
63 eeprom write denied
64 flex fuel sensor signal out of range
64 VNT solenoid #1 circuit
65 manifold tuning valve, open or short detected
65 VNT solenoid #2 circuit
66 no ccd messages
67 VNT "A" side failure
76 ballast bypass relay, open or short detected
77 speed control relay, open or short detected



Of course some of these don't apply to gas trucks...like the turbo codes...Just a list I found.

 

May have an air pocket in the cooling system causing it to get a little hotter. If so, the air pocket will usually work itself out (on my truck anyway). When I changed my radiator, mine ran hotter than usual for a minute or so, then the temp hand dropped rapidly to where it normally sits. I actually had turned around and headed back home because I thought it was going to get too hot, then the temp hand dropped. Might drive it around a bit and see if the temp hand goes down. Of course, need to be careful and not let it get too hot.

 

man u guys rock