Or, do some upgrades on the trans when it's rebuilt, and never worry about it again..... costs a bit more though. Yet another option would be a Mega Viper.... basically bulletproof trans.

 

I don't really have the money for a rebuild, or anything else really, i hadn't anticipated on the trans crappin' out this soon. I mean if it lasted 'til 100k then that'd would be alright, but 87k is a little too soon by my standards.

But then again with another auto, i could just swap it right in without having to change the harness, pedal assembly, etc etc.

Ill have to weigh the options lol

 

I am just not sold on the tranny taking a dump. Was there other symptoms before the filter change?

 

The transmissions on our trucks are not the strong point.even with the extra special fluid they dont hold up against their competition in this regard..... I read that they average about 75k before going down hill.... I needed to have mine done at 150k but I seriously doubt it was the original transmission...especially by judging from the PO's silicone repairs to broken od housing and such...

 

Mine is the original and I have put 60k hard towing miles on it in the last 4 years-it had 108k when I bought it. I guess I have been one of the fortunate minority? I doubt it. My guess is most folks have no issues, but since this site is a place for those who do have problems to discuss it, that is why it seems abnormally high. I have the service records for the truck from new. The one owner since new was quite fastidious with maintenance. The only thing replaced was the a/c compressor and lines.

 

Not really, just the occasional hard upshift between 1-2 and then it would buck sometimes as i putt around around 15mph on and off the throttle. And the pan was leaking, and so is the check valve by the radiatior. Thats about it, it ran like a champ before the filter change.

 

OK. This info is important. Fix the easy stuff first - the leak at teh check valve. I suspect the pan leak is either overtightening pan bolts. missing a pan bolt, etc. Too many people tighten them down too mcuh and bend lip on pan. Torque per manual.

Shifting issue can be governor pressure sensor and/or solenoid. Easy to clean/replace as needed, and not too expensive.

If it was working OK before fluid change, assuming correect fluid and fluid level full when warmed up and in Neutral, it should not have suddenly died.

 

I need to invest in a torque wrench, i tried not to over tighten them, but i probably did, and its leaking on the front left corner where theres a larger gap between bolts. its probably bent there from the previous owner because thats where it was leaking before i ever touched it.

Ill have to look into the govenor sensor/solenoid. And im just going to delete the check valve, if its leaking fluid out it can very well let air into the line.

Thanks for the help man!

 

Your symptoms sounds just like sucking air. My concern is that you're unable to afford a rebuild, but instead of taking a peak at that filter installation which is almost free you're driving the thing just begging it to fail completely.

If I were in your shoes, I'd pick up the largest disposable roasting pan they've got at the supermarket and very carefully drop the pan so it drains into it. Unless it's cooked, you can just reuse that same fluid which is about half new since your fluid change. It's cheap and relatively easy, and a helluva lot better than just waiting around for the thing to grenade.

 

+1....

which equates to +(-)$1500~$2000....