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Building a 5.2 for boost

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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 02:25 PM
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Default Building a 5.2 for boost

Well it happened, I took things to far. Went from a simple cam and intake change to getting some heads and since the heads were off might as well just pull the motor to deciding that since I've got the motor a part might as well rebuild it then since I'm rebuilding it I bought a procharger off my friend who then proceeded to talk me into cutting my truck up for the body drop since I had the motor out. Yea, thats the worlds longest run-on sentience...lol.

But this is what I've got going on
Cam 212/218 .480/.480 112 +4
Hughes intake
HiPoTek billet fuel rail with full -6 lines
JBA shorties True dual 2 1/4 stainless exhaust with H and 14" magnaflow, no cats

Adding:
IMM heads
Procharger
HiPoTek throttle body

Looks like I'm going to be going .030 over to a 3.940 bore and running a set of Diamond pistons and eagle rods.

Does anyone have any experience with the 5.2s on boost? Don't want to go over board with the build and I also have no idea what kind of power these motors can handle.

Thanks, John
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 02:38 PM
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Check out threads by Hahns5.2, he has a boosted 5.2.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 04:54 PM
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If he's making that kind of power on basically a stock long block and its lasting..wow!

And to think I'm throwing eagle rods, diamond pistons and all arp bolts just incase. To think I was only placing on running 6lbs. Might have to bump up that number to 10lbs now..lol
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 05:12 PM
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Pick your compression ratio for boost. The rest is pretty basic; Forced Induction works good on most stock motors. Stronger rods are nice since detonation is an issue and it kills rods way faster than over-revving will, but you can just be careful. You need ECM mods, maybe injectors. Pay attention to the rest of the drivetrain.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by SvrdRam
If he's making that kind of power on basically a stock long block and its lasting..wow!

And to think I'm throwing eagle rods, diamond pistons and all arp bolts just incase. To think I was only placing on running 6lbs. Might have to bump up that number to 10lbs now..lol
Stock long/short block is legit. Recently there was a guy who made about 500WHP/550ft/lbs with a 5.2 Dakota, stock shortblock on like 17PSI. The important thing with boost is a bigger ring gap to avoid breaking ring lands, this is important with both stock and forged pistons. I assume my higher mileage engine has decent sized ring gap just from wear.

FWIW I'm going with a front mount setup soon with new 1 piece SS valves and upgraded valve springs and probably stock Clearwater heads. Should be able to hit 6k without floating.

Also above 10PSI you're going to want good headgaskets and ARP bolts/studs.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 05:34 PM
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I'm extremely familiar with playing with boost, I current have a 91lx with a 408w that wears a pair of 6768s that makes alittle over 1200hp at the wheels on e85.

But what I don't is what these motors can handle (stock 5.0 splits at 14psi and 566hp ;-)) thats why I figured I'd throw the best pistons money can buy and a decent set of rods but its the crank and block I was concerned with. Only looking for mid 300hp at the wheel to back up its looks.
 

Last edited by SvrdRam; Apr 10, 2012 at 05:38 PM.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 05:46 PM
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Truck looks pretty sweet man! One thing though... all that time/money into the body and you can't get that bumper plastic right?


Again, sweet truck
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 05:49 PM
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I wish my wife would let me build a motor like that, but she would tell me William you aren't a child and or a young man any more...LOL
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 05:52 PM
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Lol, bumper got screwed up from the cherry picker. Its currently under going some surgery and having a full steel bumper built.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 05:58 PM
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Oooooh you better put up pictures when that happens!!
 
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