Hey guys,

I'm finally getting around to changing the main and rod bearings in the old 98. Its been sitting for a few weeks...

Plans for the main bearings are to loosen the main caps and changing the bearings one at a time and changing the rear seal while im at it (looks like its been leaking for quite some time)

Will the same procedure work for the rod bearings, and my main question is- will I have to shim or hold the crankshaft in place while I'm changing the bearings?

Thanks everyone! The site has saved me a ton of money that I don't have!

 

You could take off all the main caps, and the crank would stay in place. In fact, you may have to, so you get enough clearance to get the bearings out. Look at your new bearings when you have them in hand, note that there is a "key" (for lack of a better word) that sorta holds them in place. (there is a notch in the main cap, and in the block side as well.) You are going to have to get creative to get the old ones out, and the new ones in without marfing things up. BE CAREFUL. Make sure you hit the bearing surface that goes toward the crank with some variety of lube..... I use the spray white lithium grease.....

 

are you going to try to get precise measurements for oversize bearings, or just put in stock bearings?
http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/how.html

why are you changing bearings? is it knocking?

 

He had another thread where he was still having oil pressure problems after putting in a new pump.

 

Sorry I've been busy and haven't been able to pull the pan yet. I'm changing the bearing to hopefully keep oil pressure up...

I was kinda planning on using a small flat head screw driver or maybe a punch of some sort to lightly tap the block side bearings out?

And I grabbed some RTV to help seal the main caps and I grabbed some white lithium lubricant spray to put on the bearings for the first start up

Thanks again everyone

 

This may sound dumb- will I be able to manuever some of the rods around to more easily get the top bearings out? Or will I be risking scraping the cylinder walls with un lubricated rings?

 

You can shuffle them some without concern. If you are nervous about it, shoot some lithium grease on the cylinder walls. (will smoke like the dickens when you start it up though.... )

 

Just wondering as I haven't been into the bottom end on my 360 yet, but is there some reason you can't just use a roll-out pin to remove and install the upper half of the mains?

 

Use something that isn't harder than the bearings....... and won't scar the journals, or the bearing seats.... with all the mains off, the crank should move a hair bit, enough to be able to snake the bearings out, and new ones in, without too much creative destruction.

 

Good to know!

I am halfway through the job now but am struggling to pop the main caps off? I tried lightly tapping with a hammer. Tried tapping a chisel on the sides where it meets the block...

As it sits out in my garage right now I have all the bolts loosened and the caps are ready to come off- any ideas?