I would just measure them all and make sure they are all within spec.

 

Ok here are the pictures of the cam bearings.









And here is the oil pan repainted after I used it to cover the bottom end of the block.

 

I think I would replace the bearings just on general principles. In the overall scheme of things, they are not that expensive..... and I would look at it as 'cheap insurance'. Some of the cam bearings appear a bit more scuffed than I would be comfy with......

You have the engine out NOW. You would be seriously bummed if you DON'T change them, and then have an issue in a few thousand miles......

 

Magnum cam bearings almost always look hosed. But really it's a cam bearing and isn't even close to being as critical as a rod or main. But yeah they're like $20, so why not.

 

I think I am just going to replace all the bearings except for the cam bearings unless you guys feel strongly about me taking it in and having them replaced also. I also need to buy new rings as I broke one trying to take it off the broken piston. Is there anything I need to do to the cylinder walls before putting new rings on the pistons? I think I need to run my deglazer thru them but can't remember 100%.

 

Yeah, run the glaze breaker in each cylinder a touch. New rings will break in better for it.

Ever consider the Total Seal gapless piston rings?

 

HeyYou,
Yep I have looked at the gapless rings and just don't like all the hit and miss problems I am reading about. It seems every other engine has had oil burning problems. I know you only hear about problems online and who really knows how many successful engines are out there. I am just going to stick with regular gapped rings of the Moly type.
Also after a lot of reading and research last night and this morning with Moly rings they want a smoother finish not a coarser finish. They say start with a 220/280 grit and then finish off with a 300/400 grit flex hones.

 

Yeah, I have read about some issues with the gapless rings. The 'overlap' part being rather thinner, some folks have reported that they like to break there, score the cylinder wall, and lead to oil burning.... Now, I don't know if that is a factor of just the way the rings are made, or, if it has more to do with improper installation..... Don't know. Don't know anyone with personal experience either.... I am still looking for a guinea pig.

 

Looks good Rick.

Just put a nice fine cross hatch in the cylinder walls. I'd mic the walls compared to the pistons. Also Make sure you gap the new rings properly.

 

I'm going to call Total Seal tomorrow and talk to them about what rings I would want to use in the engine. I'll see what they have got to say about the issues some people have.