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5.9 Rebuild on the cheap: Now Just Empty Every Pocket build.

Old Jun 11, 2012 | 09:07 PM
  #31  
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I put the HS 1.7 in mine a couple of weeks ago. Easy job, just torque them correctly (21 ft pounds I think). I will probably yank the cover off this weekend to check to make sure they are still torqued properly.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 09:11 PM
  #32  
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dude94,
I already have the H&S 1.7 ratio rockers. Is there any tricks or secrets to installing them? Or do I just bolt them on and torque them down to stock spec's? How about when I do switch to a aftermarket cam, how do I measure for the correct length push rods? Do I reuse the stock guide plates or just install the rockers? I have looked around to try and find a good write-up on installing them on the Magnum engine but haven't found one yet. And I would also like to find a good write-up on how to figure out the correct length when I do swap cams and stuff. If anyone knows of any write-ups shoot me a link please.

Thanks again, like I said I ain't a novice but sure am not an expert by any means.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 09:41 PM
  #33  
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Lifters need to go back in the same hole they came out of. Yup. Not quite as critical on a roller as the standard hydraulics though.....

Don't need the adjustable rockers with stock cam/lifters. The non-adjustable fellers will work just fine, just use the same install procedure for the HS rockers as you would for the factory stamped steel guys. (which is in the service manual.)
 
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 10:49 PM
  #34  
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HeyYou,
Thanks I can do that. Got the manual right here on my computer and will just print off the pages I need when the time comes.

Can I still use the non-adjustable rockers when I do swap to an aftermarket cam?
 
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 10:58 PM
  #35  
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Check pushrod length, and valve train geometry...... cam may suggest hardened pushrods, and/or specific length pushrods. Pay attention when looking at cams, or, just call and talk to the cam vendor of your choice.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 01:40 AM
  #36  
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Ok another question for everyone.

Do I need to get a degree wheel and degree my cam when I put the engine back together? I have never used one before and since this is a stock cam do I need to now? When looking at new timing chain sets the gears are keyed +/- 4degrees. Why would I want to advance or retard the cam?

Thanks again
 
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 01:51 AM
  #37  
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I think most cam installs are done with the engine at TDC.

Why advance or retard timing? Power. lol
IIRC a 4 degree retard will net a little more low end. But don't quote me on it.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 03:47 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Wildman4x4nut
Ok another question for everyone.

Do I need to get a degree wheel and degree my cam when I put the engine back together? I have never used one before and since this is a stock cam do I need to now? When looking at new timing chain sets the gears are keyed +/- 4degrees. Why would I want to advance or retard the cam?

Thanks again
Always, always degree a cam in...Straight up or dot to dot can be a tooth off...Did I say always?

But...Unless you are ready to do valve springs and switch to one piece valves, stick with the 1.7 non adjs. I have some for my Ram, just never put them in...My Money pit Dakota is taking up all my time.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 08:17 AM
  #39  
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Really curious to the heads your installing with the .1.7 . I have the Hughes airgap already . I just need those heads .

Did u have to call and specify to them about the rockers , did they need to change anything ?

Also do u have the Sct to support these new mods ?

Also did u get a new timing chain ?
 
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 04:04 PM
  #40  
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lastrights,
Go on Ebay and type in EQ heads. You'll find two vendors 1) Clearwater Heads 2) Odessa Heads and they are both within a block of eachother it seems.
Ask them for their Monster EQ heads. They have the large valves & springs good up to .600 lift. The specs for the heads are normally in the Ebay auction ad.

Yes I am going to change my timing chain. Nope I do not have a SCT tuner YET but my ECM has been flashed by B&G.
 
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