When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
5.9 Rebuild on the cheap: Now Just Empty Every Pocket build.
2nd Gen Ram Tech1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
5.9 Rebuild on the cheap: Now Just Empty Every Pocket build.
Power band from 3500 to 5700??? Isn't that a little high for an off road truck, that isn't a desert racer?
The cam I got should come in at a lower RPM. I said they were similar so the HP & TQ numbers should be close. The cam being used in that dyno run had a 114* lobe center and I have 108* which drops when the power comes on. It also lowers the peak power but I'm not going to be going much above 5K. His compression is 9.7:1 and mine is 10:1. He has EQ Monster heads on that build same as what I have.
Finally got to the point where it was time to start working on the engine. Still have a lot to do on the Jeep but I need the engine assembled first so I can verify how it will sit in the frame and double check clearance. So I pulled the block back out of the Jeep and installed it onto my engine stand.
I'm going to be running some Total Seal Gapless rings. The make two types one a gapless ring for the top ring and then a gapless for the 2nd position. I have the top ring as a gapless ring. These are file to fit rings which is a first for me as I have always gotten pre-gap rings before.
I'm also running Keith Black Hyper piston which takes a larger gap that what is standard. I called Total Seal to verify what the end gap needed to be with this combination and I ended up with a 0.036 for the top gapless ring and 0.026 for the second ring and 0.015 for the oil ring.
This is what the top ring which is the gapless ring and it has a ridge on it that the other part of the ring fits into a grove. When installed on the piston the ridge is faced in a downward angle.
The other part of the ring that makes it a gapless ring fits into the upper part.
This is the part that makes the ring a gapless ring.
This is the ring filer that I got from Summit Racing. They make powered ones but as I doubt I'll do this much it wasn't worth the additional money.
Rings are all installed onto the pistons and now I'll clean the block and get it ready to be painted so that I can assemble it.
Finally got to the point where it was time to start working on the engine. Still have a lot to do on the Jeep but I need the engine assembled first so I can verify how it will sit in the frame and double check clearance. So I pulled the block back out of the Jeep and installed it onto my engine stand.
I'm going to be running some Total Seal Gapless rings. The make two types one a gapless ring for the top ring and then a gapless for the 2nd position. I have the top ring as a gapless ring. These are file to fit rings which is a first for me as I have always gotten pre-gap rings before.
I'm also running Keith Black Hyper piston which takes a larger gap that what is standard. I called Total Seal to verify what the end gap needed to be with this combination and I ended up with a 0.036 for the top gapless ring and 0.026 for the second ring and 0.015 for the oil ring.
This is what the top ring which is the gapless ring and it has a ridge on it that the other part of the ring fits into a grove. When installed on the piston the ridge is faced in a downward angle.
The other part of the ring that makes it a gapless ring fits into the upper part.
This is the part that makes the ring a gapless ring.
This is the ring filer that I got from Summit Racing. They make powered ones but as I doubt I'll do this much it wasn't worth the additional money.
Rings are all installed onto the pistons and now I'll clean the block and get it ready to be painted so that I can assemble it.
Hopefully I am doing this correctly.
Never installed hapless rings so I'm unsure of the process
Hello again,
So I got looking at everything I had bought for this engine and saw that I had ARP fasteners for everything except the main caps. I have studs for the heads, bolts for the rods, studs for the oil pan, studs for the valve covers, bolts for the flex plate & a ARP bolt for the crank pulley.
So I have a choice, either get ARP bolts for the main caps or get ARP studs with a girdle. Up to this point I hadn't thought about using the gridle because this isn't going to be a high RPM engine as I'm more looking for torque. But I am getting some people telling me I should look at the studs and gridle. To be honest this is the first time I have heard people say to use the gridle. That the magnum V-8 had a solid bottom end and didn't need that. So I'd like to hear your all's thoughts.
