I have a 1999 Ram 2500, v10, 4x4, 47RE tranny. This only happens when hot after driving 10-15 minutes. Shifting into reverse knocks the fillings out of your teeth. Harsh is being kind. Bought this truck 6 months ago, my lovely other fell in love with it. The noise was there but not as bad.

Here's what I done, the easy stuff. Checked mounts, ok. Adjusted bands, shifts slightly better but reverse is still harsh. Adjusted TV cable, no change. Replaced fluid, no change.

My wife said one other interesting thing, after I finished all of the above. When in speed control, it would tend to down shift and hunt back and forth. I read somewhere when the Tranny is hot it downshifts. Okay, I'll buy that. This has the tow package and a "Hot Transmission" light. That has not come on, then again maybe the temp sensor is not working. Plus there are no messages as to hot transmission, or anything other.

Note: I did fix the problem. What I did starts on page 4. If you think you have a cooler check valve problem read this first. A fairly simple test will tell you if you do.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Gunner out

 

If you haven't removed the check valve, do so. What you say points to the trans. overheating. That check valve plugs up with crap from normal trans. wear shutting off the flow of fluid to the cooler, frying your transmission.

 

Ya, check valve is gone. Failed to mention that. Still, why not a high temperature light? That bother me if in fact it is do to a hot fluid.

I guess that's what make us marvel at an Ram, you can never second guess them.

 

It's not an immediate solution to the problem but you could install a transmission temp gauge and see if it is getting too hot.

 

I thought about a temperature gauge, it is a good idea. At least it will eliminate one potential problem.

I have a question. Does anyone know where the temperature sensor is in the transmission. Is the Thermister in the Gov. Press. Sensor Transducer?

I also believe it is a temperature problem but....why doesn't the high temperature light come on. I believe it is over 230 F where the downshifts occur. Somewhere the brain should be getting input from a device.

Other items I forgot to mention. No smell to the fluid. The filter was one of those all fiber deals. Nice thing about them is you can see debris on it. About 3-4 very small flecks of aluminum. No steel on the magnet. There was a fair amount of sludge on the bottom.

Has anyone tried to blow out the cooling line. If nothing else one could tell if it was plugged. Looks easy enough to do.

Gunner out

 

Temp sensor is in the pressure sensor. Yep.

Flushing your cooler lines sure wouldn't hurt. Is the check valve still there? If it is, get rid of it. (just drill it out) Disconnect BOTH lines from the trans, and push cleaner thru it in both directions. (after getting rid of check valve. ) Make sure you get good flow.

 

Thanks. Do you have a more detailed description of flushing. Sounds like one needs a pump. Is there something you can buy at an Auto Parts store?

As far as the check valve, I looked for one and could not see it, if there was one there. However there is a spot on the inlet line of the cooler where the line is held on with a hose clamp. Everywhere else the connections are threaded. Makes me think that was where the check valve was.

 

Okay I found the check valve. The reason I didn't see it before it was covered with dirt. For us with a V-10, 47RE it is just before the lower connection on the radiator. If you do as I did, start to wipe all the cooling line hoses off you should find a shinny brass fitting with an arrow on it. This check valve is an integral part of the hose. And I can understand the direction to drill it out.

Also for us who wonder what the check valve is for, it prevents the convertor from draining down. Removing it means you must place the truck in "N" when starting, if the the truck has been standing for awhile. That allows the pump to fill the convertor. If the convertor has drained down the truck is not going to move.

Now I need some help, is there a correct tool or one that works better for the line quick disconnect. I found a spoke type at NAPA, and a set on Harbor Freight.

Now the bad news, when dropping the pan I notice a few flecks of aluminum, and some brown fiber stuff. I blew the fiber away, as I thought it was some contaminate in the catch pan. As I understand it, it is the convertor breaking down due to high temperature. Hopefully it isn't toast. As soon as I get the tool, I'm going to remove the check and the flush the cooler.

If anyone thinks they can flush without removing the check valve-nada. The flow goes from the bottom of the radiator out the top, to the bottom of the cooler and out the top. I believe this is remove any trapped air. So if you do not back flush the system will be full of flushing chemical. That means the check valve has to come out during flushing. Also the Tech manual says if the check valve is sticking put a new one in. Good luck on that.

If someone shows me how to add pictures, I have some of the check valve location and what it looks like.

Thanks

 

I got one of the 3/8ths fuel line disconnect tools at advance auto..... its small, and it actually works. Need to make sure the fitting isn't packed with dirt before sticking the tool in there.... clean it out with some brake cleaner, or PB Blaster, or the like. Stick the tool in, push it in as far as you can, push the fitting TOWARD the radiator first, while pushing the tool into the fitting, then it should just pull right off. Other end should be threaded. (valve end.)

To post pics, set up an account at photobucket, or imageshack, or the pic-hosting site of your choice... then just use the provided 'image' tags and copy/paste it into your post.

While you have the pan down, pull the governor pressure solenoid, and make sure it is clear. Otherwise, you get strange shifting issues.

 

Thanks Hey You for the info. Unfortunately I'm 240 miles round trip from an Advanced Auto. I'll try NAPA or O'Reilly's.

I do believe high temperature is the problem but wondered why the Trans High Temp light never came on. According to the Tech Manual is comes on @ 275F. I do believe problems happen at a lot lower Temperature than 275F-so if there is a Chrysler engineer present...WTF!

I have on order Borg Warner Gov. solenoid and sensor. Will install them once they arrive. By the way if you are wondering if I live in the states, yes indeed. Lovely Cody, WY pop 8,925. So if I want to shop at a big box, i take a 240 mile round trip to Billings, MT. Thank God for the internet!

Also am thinking about a Temp Indicator for the Trans. It seems a bone of contention of where to install it. Once I get warm and fuzzy on the location, I do believe I'll stick one in, if only for peace of mind.

Will post again once the beast is put together. Thanks again.